It might be chilly, but there’s a whole world of adventures that are just perfect at this time of year, from hand-fishing for salmon and spotting polar bear cubs to sleeping under a tongue of ice...
Looking to avoid the slopes this winter? You don't always need a pair of skis to enjoy the most magical, frozen destinations. And we've proven this true with our collection of fantastic, alternative winter experiences. From cultural encounters and festivals, to wildlife sightings and seasonal city breaks. Here's our ultimate guide to winter around the world.
Festivals | Wildlife sightings | A night in the cold
Cold-weather soaks | Festive treats | Winter food
Seasonal celebrations | Icy adventures | Alternative aurora sightings
Frozen journeys | Cultural encounters | Seasonal city breaks
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While Shetland plays host to the fiery Up Helly Aa festival every January, the little fishing town of Stonehaven, near Aberdeen, lights up just as spectacularly for Hogmanay. The Fireball
Ceremony sees locals swinging flaming wire cages parade the main street until the wee hours of 31 December. It likely emerged from superstition, as a way to burn away bad spirits so the fishermen would have good luck; today it’s a magnificent excuse for a party.
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Locals start cutting wood for the Nozawa Onsen Fire Festival as early as October, though the 300-year-old event is actually held on 15 January. The highlight is a sake-soaked battle: the town’s young people (all aged 25) attack a hand-built wooden shrine defended by the town elders (all aged 42) – these ages are deemed unlucky in Japan. By the end of the night, the shrine has been burnt to cinders, the bad spirits dispelled and plenty more spirits have been drunk.
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The 15th day of the first month in the lunar calendar (5 February 2023) sees the air above Taipei’s Pingxi district fill with flames. During the Lantern Festival, thousands of paper lanterns are released into the night sky, while revellers also cruise the night markets and gorge on fried chicken (a local obsession!).
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In Bulgaria the wearing of masks was once thought to provide protection from bad spirits and encourage a good harvest. Now, these old pagan beliefs and customs take on a more modern form in Pernik’s International Festival of Masquerade Games (late January). See locals roaming the streets wearing elaborate, monster-like costumes and performing the ritual kukeri dance, in order to chase evil away.
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No prizes for guessing what the Idaho town of Lava Hot Springs is famous for. Much of its Fire & Ice Winterfest (4–5 February 2023) focuses on the frozen aspect of these celebrations. You can drift down the Pontneuf River in an inner tube or join the locals sprinting the main street in their bathers to leap into the city fountain. Torchlit ski displays and plenty of time in the town’s thermal waters will warm you up later.
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In late February the first newborn polar bear cubs start emerging from their burrows in Manitoba’s Wapusk NP, one of the world’s largest polar bear maternity denning areas. Join a safari from a lodge near Chesnaye to be one of only a handful of visitors to see the mothers urging on their newborns and tumbling about in the snow. You may also see the northern lights.
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The best time to visit Chitwan NP is between November and January, when the weather is dry, days are still warm and the skies are clear. During this period, Jeep and walking safaris will likely yield incredible sightings of one-horned rhino, a creature that was almost wiped out here in the 1960s, but has made an incredible comeback. Though still battling for survival, the population is now up to about 700.
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One of the key places for spotting grey wolves in Poland during the winter months is in the country’s east, in a pocket of the Carpathians known by locals as the ‘mountains of the wolf’. As well as wolf packs, the area is also home to lynx, bears and herds of bison. Photography tours brave the cold, using small, well-placed hides to try to capture the wolves on camera as they hunt in ever more cunning ways.
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Think African great migrations are all about the Mara and Serengeti? Actually, the world’s largest mammal migration takes place between late October and mid-December, as 10 million straw-coloured fruit bats arrive in Zambia’s Kasanka NP to feed on the bounty of fruits that appear with the first rains. Head out on safaris at dawn and dusk for the best chance to see the bats, which are so numerous they black-out the skies.
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For something seriously cool, fall asleep beneath Europe’s largest glacier. It’s possible to stay overnight in a 100m-long ice cave inside Vatnajökull. You’ll need to hike to get there, though usually no more than a few kilometres. Thick mattresses and Arctic-rated sleeping bags are provided (temperatures will be below 0ºC). But the best moment comes in the morning, when you wake up to an impossibly blue ice ceiling overhead.
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North America’s only ice hotel, Hôtel de Glace, is rebuilt just north of Québec City every winter (January–March). Around 30,000 tonnes of snow go into its creation, and it’s unabashedly grand. There’s usually an ice bar, a grand hall, a chapel, about 40 rooms and an enormous slide – just in case you thought the idea of a hotel made of ice wasn’t quite fun enough.
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There is no shortage of snowy fun to be had around Grindelwald, which sits below the Eiger’s north face, amid the Bernese Alps. Cross-country skiers and snowshoers flock here in winter. However, one of the village’s lesser-sung activities is igloo building (available December–April). Spend a half-day cutting snow blocks and building a dome before crawling inside to check out your creation.
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If ice hotels are too passé for you, then how about a night on the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, a frozen wilderness spanning around 13,000 sq km? Guided treks across the glaciers of Argentina’s Los Glaciares NP are available October to March; hikers must wear crampons, and are roped together in case the ice breaks. But arriving on Glacier Marconi to overnight in huts or wild camp on the ice field makes it worth the effort.
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Every year, the glacial waters of Lake Bâlea, high in the Făgăraș mountains of the Southern Carpathians, freeze solid enough to build Romania’s Hotel of Ice (December-April). It’s more rustic than many of the snowy retreats you find in other countries. But the surroundings are spectacular, as is the cablecar ride to get there. Activities include ice climbing trips, snowmobiling and 14km of ski slopes on your doorstep.
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Nature, culture and winter decadence meet in elegant Baden-Baden. This Black Forest town is full of grand, colonnaded townhouses, Art Nouveau villas and, of course, baths (baden means ‘to bathe’ after all). The huge Caracalla Spa complex has a contemporary feel while the Friedrichsbad Spa is a masterpiece of 19th-century Neo-Renaissance grandeur, sitting on the site of the original Roman baths – you can explore the ruins after you’ve taken a soak.
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Pirts are traditional Latvian saunas, similar to those found in Scandinavia but smaller and usually accompanied by hot tea. It’s not uncommon to rent mobile pirts for use at the beach, so you can jump into the cold sea afterwards. There’s even a floating glass version in capital Riga: drink tea on the rooftop, sit in the hot tub, enjoy a long steam then take a dip in the Daugava River – in winter, a hole is cut in the ice.
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Few spa settings can match that of Riverbend Hot Springs in New Mexico’s Truth or Consequences. The town, formerly known as Hot Springs, was renamed in 1950 for a radio phone-in competition (it stuck); Riverbend is its only resort sitting directly where the Rio Grande curves. Submerge in the thermal pools and enjoy views of snowcapped mountains appearing through the steam.
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As the temperatures plummet in Budapest, residents flock to the city’s many beautiful bathhouses, jostling for their own bit of steamy space. But to escape the throng, head west to Hévíz instead. At 46,350 square metres, it’s the largest swimmable thermal lake in the world, so there’s always plenty of room to stretch out, and even on the coldest winter days it’s still a toasty 24ºC at the surface.
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At the dawn of the 20th century, the twin town of Traben-Trarbach, on the Moselle River, was the second-largest transit hub for wine in the world, behind only Bordeaux. Consequently, a huge network of cellars was built beneath the city centre. These now host a wine-themed night market between late November and January, when mulled concoctions and roasted almonds scent the tunnels.
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The northern city of Arras has two big claims to fame. First, a branch of the Louvre Museum sits just outside it; second, it hosts one of the country’s most enchanting Christmas markets. From late November to Christmas Eve, a winter wonderland crops up beneath the magnificent gabled buildings of the Grand’Place. Look for Hauts-de-France specialties such as local sweets, honey and chicory conserves.
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A few Christmas cave markets can be found across Europe; the one in (and under) Valkenburg, in the Netherlands, is perhaps the best known. But a cuter option is the market held at the 2,000-year-old Caves of Wonck, 25km north of Liège. The caves, used as a bomb shelter during the Second World War, are now mostly used to grow mushrooms. For one weekend in December, however, they fill with artisanal stalls selling festive speculoos biscuits and locally made knick knacks.
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Lots of cities have German-style markets, but the one in Frankenmuth – Michigan’s ‘Little Bavaria’– isn’t the usual festive cosplay. The residents of this US town still spoke German until the mid-20th century, and its Christ Kindl Markt (held late November and early December) is an authentic immersion in that unexpected heritage.
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The title of ‘highest Christmas market’ goes to Lucerne’s 2,132m Mount Pilatus event. A cogwheel railway or gondola ride to the summit sets expectations high (literally). At the top, a restaurant and hotel complex is the setting for a 40-stall market in late November, complete with a backdrop of Lake Lucerne’s turquoise waters and the snow-capped Emmental Alps.
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The 17th-century canals of Leiden form the perfect setting for one of Europe’s few floating Christmas markets. Usually around 100 fairylight-strewn chalets bob on the water in December, selling a festive mix of jewellery, toys and sugary oliebollen (Dutch-style doughnuts). There are also live performances held on a small floating stage and ice rink on a giant barge.
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Few winter events are quite as foodie focused as South Korea’s Hwacheon Sancheoneo Ice Festival (January- February). Ice-sculpting, skating and sledding all play second fiddle to fishing as thousands of locals perch by ice holes with baited lines or wade into freezing pools to try to catch the coveted sancheoneo (masu salmon) by hand. Many cook them up on the spot.
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Alpino Vino – at 3,627m, America’s highest fine-dining restaurant – only opens its doors December to April. Perched up in Colorado’s Telluride Ski Resort, even reaching it is tricky. The only way in by day is via a narrow ski trail; by night, a heated snowcoach takes over. However, it’s worth it to bag yourself a place by the fire and an Alpine-themed feast.
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What better appetiser is there than gazing out over 14 glaciers from the summit of the Klein Matterhorn? From Zermatt, a gondola ascends to the icy peak, where Europe’s highest restaurant awaits. You could opt to eat on the way up – fondues and breakfasts can sometimes be served in the cablecar, on request. But little beats devouring your spätzle at 3,883m.
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Austria’s Hohe Tauern NP is a spectacular sweep of snowy peaks and frozen meadows. And it can be even more dramatic by moonlight. On select dates (5 February, 7 March, 6 April 2023), a spot 1,590m up in the park’s Gastein Valley hosts a full-moon dinner party. A long table is laid out on the snow, benches are covered in blankets and furs, and delicious dishes are served under the stars.
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Winter’s sweetest gift is eiswein (ice wine), harvested when temperatures drop low enough for the grapes to freeze. This uber-sugary dessert wine is a specialty of Germany and Canada, but it is also found in the Moselle region of Luxembourg, where the river is lined with vineyards. One of the best
places to sample a drop is in Caves St-Martin in Remich, where you can tour the cellars too.
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Snowy mountains? Check. A candlelit country estate? Certainly. Breweries, vineyards and backcountry hiking and skiing? Of course. This isn’t France, but North Carolina’s mountain town of Asheville. The twisting drive up the Blue Ridge Parkway to get there is superb; the Art Deco streets strung with twinkling lights are magical. Visit the market and drop by the festively decorated Biltmore Estate, America’s largest home.
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Winter parades of Krampus – a half-goat creature said to punish naughty children – are common across Austria and Germany, where stories date back to pagan times. But they have crept into other cultures, too. North Yorkshire’s Whitby Krampus Run (4 December) is a natural fit for a coastal town that has its share of Gothic vibes (Bram Stoker’s Dracula landed here). A tradition that began with a few friends now even has its own Krampus Ball (3 December).
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The Day of the Holy Innocents (28 December) remembers the biblical tale of King Herod ordering all the male children around Bethlehem to be killed. Over the years, however, this solemn occasion has flipped to a day of pranks and celebration in Spain, similar to April Fool’s Day. In the Alicante town of Ibi it has even become a full-on food fight, with flour and eggs the weapons of choice. No one is safe!
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The Punjabi festival of Lohri (13 January) marks the passing of the shortest day and the start of the winter harvest season. Locals light bonfires – symbolising the return of the sun – around which they sing, chant and throw offerings such as sweets, puffed rice and sesame seeds. The celebrations are most colourful in the north Indian states of Punjab, Haryana and Delhi.
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Romania offers the chance to see out the year in the company of ‘bears’. On 30 December the Festival of Customs and Ancestors’ Customs in the northeastern town of Comănești sees locals dress in bear costumes, a relic of the days when Roma would visit with bears on leashes to chase away bad spirits. In the absence of real animals these days (dancing bears are now illegal in Europe), people play the part, dancing and being ceremonially killed and brought back to life to a deafening drum beat.
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Sapporo makes an excellent base for anyone wanting to ski Hokkaido’s volcanoes. Mount Yotei (1,898m), a 90km drive south-west of the city, is perhaps the star attraction. The hike up is pretty strenuous and requires a guide – many opt for heli-skiing visits instead – but once you get to the top it’s one of few places in the world where you can ski into the crater of a semi-active volcano. Unforgettable.
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Bryce Canyon isn’t what you think of when you picture a winter landscape. The Utah national park’s Mars-like high-desert is usually pictured baking under a hot sun. Yet a crisp coating of snow lends Bryce’s red-rock hoodoos (spires) an otherworldly look. While fewer facilities, roads and trails open in the park over the colder months, snowshoeing is popular here and
atmospheric ranger-led full-moon hikes run year-round.
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Hiking any glacier puts you in a world where humans just aren’t meant to be. That’s what’s so thrilling. New Zealand has almost 3,000 of these icy tongues, with the west-coast glaciers of Fox and Franz Josef especially well set up for hiking and heli-hiking tours. However, to really get away from it all, head to Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park for close-ups with the Tasman Glacier – at 29km, the longest in the country.
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In winter, Lithuania’s Curonian Lagoon transforms into a frozen sea of colourful sails. Ice-boating is taken seriously here – that is, the sport of tacking across the frosted surface on reclining windsurf-sled type vessels. The ice needs to be at least 10cm thick and the wind speed around 3-4 m/s. Once conditions (usually January to March) are cold enough, you’re good to go.
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Tiny Andorra isn’t everyone’s first idea of a winter escape, but this rocky slice of the Pyrenees (average elevation: 2,000m) is full of thrills. The ski resort of Grandvalira yields plenty of downhill pistes and snowshoe and dog-sled adventures, plus the chance to snowmobile through the Moretó forest. End active days with hearty dinners in traditional bordes (converted grain stores) and nights at a private ski-in dome suite, perched 2,300m up in the mountains.
The northern lights are typically visible between October and the end of March, with the long, dark winter months best for sightings – particularly north of the Arctic Circle. But there are many unique ways to see this phenomenon…
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Just craning you neck upwards is too easy; the wilderness hotels of Finnish Lapland make you work for a sighting. Try dog-sledding out into the boreal forests beneath the green glow of the lights, returning to spend the night in your own glass-bubble dome. Or maybe take a snowmobile safari around the frozen shores of Lake Inari to camp under some of the darkest skies in Europe as the aurora ripples overhead.
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You don’t need to be above the 66th parallel for a clear sighting of the lights. You can even see them in Britain, though it pays to head to Scotland and, even better, specifically to the Shetland isle of Unst, the northernmost inhabited part of the UK. Best of all, if you time your visit for January, you could also catch the Viking-inspired Up Helly Aa festival in Lerwick on Mainland.
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There are small-boat cruises around northern Norway’s fjords (carrying 100 or so people) and then there are seriously small ones, like sailing from Tromsø in a four-cabin catamaran. Do this in winter for a more intimate take on the icy Arctic. Spot orca and humpbacks by day and aurora by night – onboard guides will offer photography advice. You might learn a few sailing tricks along the way too.
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It might be below the Arctic Circle, but the state of Montana has one of the lowest population densities in the US – just seven people per square mile – so light pollution barely registers there. This makes it a good spot for aurora hunters and stargazers. Glacier NP, a certified Dark Sky spot, is particularly popular: you might even get to see the aurora reflected in the waters of Lake McDonald, a truly out-of-this-world sight.
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The Netherlands’ Elfstedentocht is the biggest ice-skating tour in the world, an almost 200km circuit on frozen canals, rivers and lakes via the 11 historic cities of Friesland. However, it requires very thick ice in order to go ahead; the first event was in 1909 but it’s only been held 15 times (the last was in 1997). Even if it’s not on, it’s still fun to wander the canals of Leeuwarden (the start of the race) – and you can always practise your moves in the city’s Elfstedenhal ice rink instead.
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It’s only around January that the ice roads of Canada’s Northwest Territories are typically suitable for vehicles (the ice must be 40cm thick). These frozen highways link a number of Canada’s far-flung, remote and largely Indigenous communities. Some routes have been paved in recent years, but the ice road to the Inuvialuit community of Aklavik, where 600 residents live on the Mackenzie Delta, still offers the only way in or out for visitors and locals in winter – and an incredible journey.
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Vermont’s Catamount Trail (480km) is the longest Nordic skiing route in North America, stretching from the state’s border with Massachusetts right up to Canada. Chances are slight that you would do it all in one go – in 40 years, just 105 people have. But the trail is divided into 31 segments, which can be done in single-day tours – a good way to get a taster and find your feet in the New England snow.
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There’s nothing like crossing a global landmark to add extra spice to a journey. The Nordland is the longest rail route in Norway (729km), and hops into the Arctic Circle as it trundles from Trondheim to Bodø. Or take the Arctic Circle Train, which runs between Stockholm (Sweden) and Narvik (Norway) in the far-north, with a change in Kiruna – a town that had to be moved to stop it collapsing into a mine. Take the sleeper from the Swedish capital for the thrill of waking up in a frozen world.
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While western Antarctica is busy with cruise ships from November to March, the east is only really
accessible in January and February. Cruises to this side run from New Zealand and Australia, and must deal with the icy Ross Sea; they are also a minimum of a month long, making this the far less common route to reach the White Continent. Along the way lie penguin-crowded islands, huge ice cliffs and historic reminders of the explorers of the Heroic Age.
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Remote Alaskan communities such as the Iñupiat of Utqiagvik (formerly Barrow), the northernmost town in the US, are all but impossible to reach in winter. But the Native Heritage Center in Anchorage offers cultural information and experiences to help broaden your knowledge of Alaska’s indigenous culture. Visit Ketchikan to explore the town with Indigenous artists and see the world’s largest collection of totem poles. Then head to Sitka National Historical Park, which is an important site for the Tlingit community.
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The Sámi reindeer herders of Lapland still migrate alongside their animals each year, moving them between summer and winter pastures. Winter encounters with the Sámi in northern Norway and Finland typically include sledding out to where the animals live, sleeping in traditional lavvu (tents), dining on foods like smoked reindeer meat and berries, and listening to traditional stories. It’s fascinating to learn how this way of life survives in the modern world.
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It is easy to encounter Greenland’s Indigenous peoples. Almost 90% of the island’s population is Inuit. Even in more cosmopolitan Nuuk (see p182), the capital, native guides can help you discover local culture amid the Danish developments. In icy Ilulissat go on a dog-sledding trip for a taste of traditional life, then visit Sermermiut Valley to see the remains of Inuit settlements dating back 4,000 years. Visit from late January, when the days are lengthening, to maximise your time.
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Canada’s northernmost region, Nunavik, is about the size of France yet home to just 14 towns. Kuujjuaq, on Ungava Bay, is the largest, with a population of just 2,400 people. The best way to explore this vastness is with an Inuit guide. Tours will likely include visits to parks where vast herds of
caribou roam, dog-sled trips, chances to meet local artists, chats with elders about life on the Arctic fringes and the traditions that still survive here, and (with luck) sightings of the northern lights.
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There are few sights more fairytale than Croatia’s Plitviče Lakes covered in snow. Following the walkway through the park is like entering a watery Narnia, where the cascades, frozen in mid-air, are fringed by icy forest. To visit, base yourself in nearby Zadar. The coastal city hosts a sparkling Christmas market (late November to January), where stalls selling peppery paprenjaci biscuits pop up on the streets and squares. However, strolling the Upper Town without the usual summer crowds might be the best Christmas gift of all.
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The Normandy city of Rouen, on the banks of the Seine, strikes a Gothic pose – the writer Victor Hugo called it the city of ‘a hundred spires’. In winter it becomes extra atmospheric, with the narrow lanes of the medieval quarter aglow with festive lights, stalls selling mulled wine and cider, and a Christmas market on the square in front of the immense cathedral. It’s also a stop on cruises along the Seine from Paris, a magical way to view the frosty Normandy countryside.
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Santa Fe, New Mexico’s mini state capital, charms at any time; come winter, as the surrounding Sangre de Cristo Mountains whiten and the nearby national forest fills with Nordic skiers, it truly shines. The city itself never gets too cold, and has plenty of spas to warm you up anyway (seek out the ryokan-style Ten Thousand Waves). Beer lovers should visit in January for WinterBrew, while the sacred Las Posadas candlelit procession around Santa Fe plaza shows the city in a different light.
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Tallinn’s chocolate-box vibe is only amplified by a light dusting of snow. Its Christmas market is a particular delight, fanning out across the cobbles of its old centre, beneath the Gothic arches of the town hall. But don’t stop there. Combine the capital with a visit to Tartu, Estonia’s second-city, whose 18th-century buildings escaped Soviet scrutiny to offer an elegant alternative to Tallinn’s medieval grit. Best of all, Tartu is close to Lake Peipus where, in winter, you can drive on ice roads, go ice fishing and ice
skating, and visit a tiny island reserve.
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The reputation of Mallorca as a summer beach retreat does it a disservice. There’s more to the island than that, not least capital Palma, which is a handsome hub of 13th-century streets, Gothic churches, Arab baths, fine galleries and elegant squares. In winter, with much of the island shut down, it takes on a different air entirely. Also, with temperatures still on the mild side, the low season opens up Mallorca’s potential as a magnificent walking destination too.
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There can be something glorious about a seaside town in winter. Take Gaeta, located on a dramatic promontory between Rome and Naples on the Ulysses Riviera. Dubbed the ‘City of a Hundred Churches’, it was once a summer playground for well-to-do Ancient Romans; the remains of their villas can still be seen scattering its fringes and they lose little of their impact in the winter months, when the crowds are scarce and the town’s cobbled streets take on an appropriately pious feel.
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The shallow waterways around Crystal River, north of Tampa, are extra special from November to April. Balmy year-round, they’re a perfect winter refuge for large numbers of manatees. It’s also the only place in Florida where you’re allowed to swim with these gentle giants. Alternatively, head for the beaches, lively food scene and Art Deco neighbourhoods of Miami. This city is a fine base for exploring the Everglades at a time when milder temperatures see fewer mosquitoes and crowds, but a huge influx of migratory birds.
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In winter many travellers make for the Alpine lakes and mountains of Switzerland’s beautiful Bernese Oberland. But the northern city of Basel offers a more cultured side to the country at this time of year. You’ll find Christmas markets and plenty of architectural gems, from the Old Town’s Blue and White Houses to uber-modern showpieces. By February, carnival season has taken hold, with parades, guggenmusik (masked marching bands) and an air of joyous chaos filling the streets.
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