Cattle ranchers wrangle their herds in Guyana's interior (John Gimlette)


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Your full Wanderlust guide to travel in Guyana

Guyana is truly a wild frontier – a land of few roads, pristine forest and ecotourism opportunities aplenty.

The coastal region is dominated by a mixture of coconut palms, calypso music, Hindu temples, rice and Demerara sugar. Leaving the sea behind, it is a land of waterfalls and rainforest, giving way to wildlife-rich savannas and isolated ranches.

The capital, Georgetown, is known as the Garden City of the Caribbean, despite being theoretically on the Atlantic. Its wide, tree-lined avenue and canals follow the layout of the old sugar estates. White-painted wooden 19th-century houses are raised on stilts, and flowering trees fill the streets. In the evening the sea wall is crowded with strollers and at Easter it is a mass of colourful kites.

The thinly populated interior is almost untouched and rivers are often the only way to get around. Highlights include Kaieteur Falls – almost five times the height of Niagara, with a single sheer drop of 228m – and Orinduik Falls, where the river pours over steps and terraces of jasper. Further south, the big draws for wildlife watchers are Iwokrama Forest Reserve, where you just might spot an elusive jaguar, and Karanambu, where giant river otters gambol.

To the north, Shell Beach is on a vast stretch of Atlantic coastline: 145km of protected nesting ground for leatherback, green, hawksbill and Olive Ridley turtles. The remaining coast consists of mangrove swamps full of ibis, parrot, toucans, iguanas and, occasionally, river dolphins.

  • Capital city: Georgetown
  • Population: 790,000
  • Money: Guyana Dollar
  • Int dialing code: + 592
  • Languages: English & Guyanese Creole
  • Visas: British nationals do not need visas to visit Guyana.
  • Voltage: 230 V
  • Time: GMT - 4

Wanderlust recommends

  1. Dress up for Maharamani (‘the celebration of a job well done’) as locals mark the birth of the Republic on 23 February with colourful street parades and steel bands
  2. Discover the forest with the Makushi people
  3. Saddle up with southern cowboys
  4. Get up close and personal with the local wildlife in Iwokrama Forest Reserve or the Rupununi Savannah
  5. Trek or fly to the Kaieteur Falls in the bio-diverse Kaieteur Park, a paradise for nature fans


Further Reading

When to go to Guyana

May, June and July form the main wet season; best avoided, though a good time to see jaguar as they wander onto roads to dry their paws. February to April and August to November are the best times to visit as water levels are low so you can see otter and caiman on the banks. The secondary rainy season runs from late December to late January.


International airport

Cheddi Jagan (GEO) is 40km from Georgetown.

Getting around in Guyana

Independent travel is possible but difficult: much accommodation in the interior can only be booked by radio, and transport to remote areas and up rivers has to be pre-arranged. Along the coast, minibuses are cheap but have a poor safety record.

Guyana accommodation

In Georgetown, accommodation ranges from scruffy flophouses to 4-star hotels with plenty of midrange and budget options. Out of town, you won’t find anything fancy but wherever you go you should find a comfy room to lay your head and there are many rustic tourist lodges. Government guesthouses are often good value. There are no official campsites in Guyana but budget conscious travellers will find plenty of places to hang a hammock away from the creepy-crawlies.

Guyana food & drink

Cuisine in Guyana is a mixture of West Indian, Portuguese and Indian. There are also reminders of the days of British rule with sausage rolls, cake, and fish and chips. Popular dishes include chicken curry, roti (flat bread), chicken-en-de-ruff, cookup rice (rice cooked with coconut milk and whatever else is going) and black pudding. Fried fish (particularly Bangor Mary) is also popular. In the Amerindian areas, there may be bushmeat (wild pig or tapir), cassava and pepperpot (a spicy meat or fish stew). Vegetarianism is well catered for, particularly in areas with a strong Indian presence. Lentils and chickpeas often form the basis of a tasty, well-spiced dish. Soft drinks, known as sweet drinks, include all the usual suspects. The main alcoholic drink is dark rum, often drunk with lime. The local beer, Banks, is also popular but is quite malty to the European palate. Wine is expensive.

Health & safety in Guyana

Crime is a problem, particularly in Georgetown, although many think the situation is improving. Fear of crime should not overshadow a visit to this city; take the usual common sense precautions: avoid displays of jewellery and cameras; take taxis to get around at night; steer clear of troublesome areas, eg Albertown. Hygiene is variable and stomach upsets are not uncommon. Never drink tap water. Swimming in rivers is a fabulous experience, but local advice should be sought.

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