The twin capitals of Spain’s Canary Islands aren’t short of culture or carnaval spirit, and the fast ferry linking them means you can enjoy two very different, car-free city breaks in one...
Forget any anachronistic images about Tenerife and Gran Canaria you have. Let your mind drift off instead to two intoxicating capital cities set adrift in the deep Atlantic of Macaronesia, part of an archipelago of big skies, cobalt ocean, soaring volcanoes and sweeping beaches; a land where it seems to be springtime year-round.
Life in the city of Santa Cruz de Tenerife dates back over two millennia, to when the Canary Islands were inhabited by the Indigenous Guanche people. Much later came the Spanish, who conquered the archipelago in the 1400s and changed life here forever. By the 19th century, Santa Cruz was the capital of the Canaries and one of Europe’s most important ports; by 1927, this capital status was shared with Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, whose rise as a critical port for trade between Europe and the Americas saw it surge in importance over the centuries. Everything on the islands flowed through them.
While construction started on Las Palmas’ Santa Ana cathedral in 1500, it wasn’t completed for 400 years and merges a number of architectural styles (one eye / Alamy Stock Photo)
The Santiago Calatrava-designed Auditorio de Tenerife was completed in 2003 (travelstock44 / Alamy Stock Photo)
These twin geographical and geopolitical anomalies are part European, yes; but there is also an unmistakable South American swagger, architecturally and culturally, and their proximity to Africa has undoubtedly had a big influence. Yet while the two capitals share so much, they are very different. Their pride at being distinct is exemplified by residents who never tolerate their city names being shortened to Las Palmas or Santa Cruz, even if everyone does it.
Las Palmas’ Latin American vibe conjures Rio comparisons, thanks to the presence of its own Copacabana-style beach, known as Las Canteras, and its lively outdoor lifestyle. It feels like a big capital, and it is – this remains one of Spain’s ten largest cities. It also has many faces, which you see as you sweep south through bustling Santa Catalina and the commercial heart of the city, then on into the old quarter of Vegueta, with its hanging balconies, pretty squares, clusters of churches and the vaulting exterior of the impressive Santa Ana cathedral.
Tenerife’s Santa Cruz, on the other hand, is a stately city of grand streets and leafy parks. It’s deeply Canarian but wears its Spanish architectural and cultural influences on its sleeve. It is also home to, reputedly, the second biggest carnival in the world, after Rio, so strap in for a party – residents demonstrate admirable creativity and stamina. This spirit ripples on year-round in the subversive Carnaval societies of La Noria district. Elsewhere, the Plaza de España sets the tone for a graceful city that is alive with old-world architecture; one where pavement cafés and lush parks abound. Indeed, both capitals have resoundingly embraced outdoor living, so take a pew and join in.
Gran Canaria's 15th-century settlement, replete with relics such as Casa de Colón, which used to host explorer Christopher Columbus on his visits to the island (robertharding / Alamy Stock Photo)
Start in Vegueta, where the city of Las Palmas was originally forged from stone and lava blocks on the island of Gran Canaria. Wander the cobbles admiring grand frontages and hanging balconies. All roads here lead to Plaza de Santa Ana and its impressive cathedral.
Hit the beach. Las Canteras is a 3km-long sandy wonder. Breakfast alongside the joggers then enjoy a dip. A late lunch awaits in myriad boulevard cafés, before exploring the frenetic streets of Las Canteras’ hinterland. Ease back south along the waterfront boulevard, savouring views of the port and marina.
Triana, the bit between Las Canteras and Vegueta, is bypassed by many visitors. Don’t follow their lead. Instead, join the locals in reclining in its cafés and tapas haunts. The elegant avenues and side streets are alive with all sorts of independent shops, from shoemakers to barbers. Continue to Parque San Telmo, one of the city’s bountiful green spaces, which is also home to the elegant Ermita de San Telmo chapel.
Gran Canaria’s San Andrés is filled with centuries-old mansions that date back to when this was a centre for wealthy traders (Shutterstock)
Take a ferry from Las Palmas and sit port-side to enjoy views of Gran Canaria’s coast and Tenerife’s huge Mount Teide (3,715m – almost three times higher than Scotland’s Ben Nevis) on the approach to Santa Cruz. Take in the city’s grand Plaza de España and revamped waterfront, including the remarkable Auditorio de Tenerife, then work your way back uphill towards the city’s favourite green lung, Parque García Sanabria.
Delve deep into Tenerife’s culture. The Museo de la Naturaleza y Arqueología explores back to the time of the Guanches (the island’s Indigenous people); learn too about Mount Teide. The Tenerife Espacio des Arts (TEA) boasts avant-garde architecture and art. And last but not least is the Museo de Bellas Artes, which includes works by the Flemish artist Pieter Coecke and a number of Canarian painters. Evening brings a tapas crawl of La Noria, the district draped in Carnaval culture.
Catch the bus to Playa de Las Teresitas. Walk the sands, peering up towards the Anaga mountains, before treating yourself to a seafood lunch in the village of San Andrés, then finish with an evening stroll around the pedestrianised core
Tamadaba park has 2,000 hectares of canary pine forest, a tree that is endemic to the archipelago (Islandstock / Alamy Stock Photo)
Parque Natural Tamadaba, Gran Canaria
Half of Gran Canaria is a protected UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve, and at its heart is Tamadaba Natural Park, a life-affirming 7,500 hectare wildscape. Lose yourself in a world of surging waterfalls, pines and rugged hills.
Playa de Las Teresitas, Tenerife
Just to the north of Santa Cruz lies the Playa de Las Teresitas, a Baywatch-worthy beach with sand imported from the Sahara. It looks positively Caribbean and is an antidote to Tenerife’s black-sand beaches. It’s protected from the surf by a breakwater, so it’s a safe swimming area. The seafood restaurants of the village of San Andrés tempt before the bus back to the city centre.
Parque Rural de Anaga, Tenerife
For hiking, Anaga lies just to the north of Santa Cruz and is a wild and wildly beautiful mountainous oasis of subtropical rainforests that have been carved open with walking trails. It is ideal for day trips, with a network of hiking routes criss-crossing the tree-shrouded barrancos (river gorges) that plunge dramatically towards the Atlantic. Arrange to be picked up by boat from the coast for a return to Santa Cruz in style.
Las Palmas’ Santa Ana cathedral isn’t just a work of art, it contains a wealth of artefacts and artworks, many of them found in its Museo Diocesano de Arte Sacro (Greg Balfour Evans / Alamy Stock Photo)
Catedral de Santa Ana de Canarias, Gran Canaria
Las Palmas’ landmark Catholic cathedral soars above the old town of Vegueta. Take time to appreciate its vaulting exterior from the elegant Plaza de Santa Ana before delving into the nave. The overarching style is Gothic, but the many nips and tucks over the centuries make a tour guide useful if you want to unravel its history, though there is a museum too.
Auditorio de Tenerife, Tenerife
Architect Santiago Calatrava’s epic Auditorio de Tenerife echoes Sydney Open House in many ways, not least in its design: a soaring white creation built to resemble a wave crashing into the Atlantic. Take in all the angles then catch a show; there’s everything on the roster, from rock concerts to classical recitals and operatic performances.
Tenerife Espacio de las Artes, Tenerife
This striking modern building is the perfect venue for its avant-garde art collection, with the triangular design letting in floods of light. Its three floors house a mix of permanent collections and regularly changing temporary exhibitions, or just take it easy in the library, well-stocked café or arthouse cinema.
“When I suggest that visitors head for the Vegueta Market, they often come back amazed and tell me they have nothing like it back home. It is a delightful 19th-century alternative to the world of supermarkets. It’s a real human experience too, with room to chat and smile with the colourful stallholders as you shop. The fish counters, in particular, are amazing and put our bountiful Atlantic waters on show. It’s hard to come away from Vegueta without buying anything.”
- Oscar Calle works in marketing at the Santa Catalina hotel in Las Palmas
Carnaval takes over Tenerife’s capital on the week prior to Ash Wednesday (Neyrom / Alamy Stock Photo)
ESCAPE... the city. Hike north of Las Canteras and you will soon see the urban trappings of Las Palmas de Gran Canaria dissolve. Playa del Confital tempts surfers, walkers and clothing-optional bathers alike. There are grand rock formations to ramble, a natural volcanic pool to swim in and viewpoints that open up a wild oasis on the fringes of the city.
SAVOUR... the kind of tapas and pintxos more common to Andalucía and the Basque Country at Las Palmas’ Mercado del Puerto. A flurry of wee bars and stalls attract the locals to this graceful market for lunch with a Canarian twist. Don’t miss the fried goat’s cheese spiced with fiery mojo (pepper sauce) or – local favourite – rabbit.
SWIM... in style at Santa Cruz de Tenerife’s Parque Marítimo César Manrique, the work of celebrated Canarian architect Manrique, who was known for weaving the natural world into the man-made. It has the most amazing ‘pool’ you will ever enjoy a dip in. Savour the harmony with a drink in hand.
IMMERSE... yourself in Carnaval! Las Palmas lays on an annual festival, but it’s not a patch on the one found in Santa Cruz (Feb– Mar), which is widely touted as the second most popular in the world (behind only Brazil’s Rio). Be sure to book stays and ticketed events well in advance, then join locals in seriously letting their collective hair down on the streets of the city.
The laurel forests of the Anaga mountains eventually spill to the coast, where trails link up the beaches and clifftop village of Taganana (BIOSPHOTO / Alamy Stock Photo)
Tenerife
Occidental Santa Cruz Contemporáneo
This stylish stay showcases the changing face of Santa Cruz. Set in an Art Deco mansion block, the overall impression is of a grande dame given a modern makeover. Relax in the rooftop lounge and pool, taking in the cool breezes from on high. And for a slice of luxury, book a room with a four-poster bed – it’s great value for such a characterful stay.
Iberostar Heritage Grand Mencey
Santa Cruz’s old-world oasis has a history stretching back over 70 years but doesn’t skimp on the luxuries. Wander the lush gardens or sooth achy limbs in the hotel’s 4,500 sqm SPA Sensations.
Gran Canaria
Santa Catalina, A Royal Hideaway Hotel
This palatial hotel harks back to the days when British traders bossed Las Palmas. Opened in 1890, a recent refurbishment has brought it back to its best: think marble, chandeliers and gardens worth visiting on their own. Its newly Michelin-starred restaurant, Poemas by Hermanos Padrón, and its top-notch spa and rooftop infinity pool delight.
Tusity Bed & Chic
A welcoming, hip hideaway that gazes over the lively Santa Catalina Park and sits just a few blocks back from Las Canteras. The ‘Attic’ room is a highlight, thanks to its terrace and views towards the Atlantic.
International dialling code: +34
Currency: Euro (€)
Getting there: EasyJet flies to both Tenerife and Gran Canaria from multiple UK cities, taking between four and five hours; flights cost from around £39 return. The direct Armas fast ferry between Las Palmas de Gran Canaria and Santa Cruz de Tenerife takes one hour and 40 minutes and costs from £18.50 return.
Getting around: Both Las Palmas and Santa Cruz have reliable and affordable bus services that also serve their airports, though both centres are increasingly pedestrian-friendly too. Santa Cruz also has a tram network that connects the city centre with the nearby UNESCO-listed city of San Cristóbal de La Laguna.
Weather: The famed ‘eternal spring’ weather tag holds weight. Even when the mercury rises in summer, there is often a cooling Atlantic breeze. Snow and frost are virtually unheard of. Unlike the resorts, there is no quiet season, though the savvy arrive in spring and autumn, when temperatures are mild and rainfall is low.
Further Information: grancanaria.com; webtenerife.co.uk.
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