Helen Moat | 19 March 2023
How to spend 48 hours in the Isles of Scilly
Timing is everything on this British archipelago, where life slows to the beat of the tides and you lose yourself among coastal paths, pale sands and castles...
Timing is everything on this British archipelago, where life slows to the beat of the tides and you lose yourself among coastal paths, pale sands and castles...
Some drove through the night, others took the sleeper train to Penzance, but we all arrived in good time for the morning boat to the Isles of Scilly. The long build-up is more than a necessity; it eases visitors into island life, where things move slower. Even while boarding the old-fashioned Scillonian ferry, it was clear we had slid into a time-worn dance: luggage was hoisted by crane, passengers strolled aboard on foot. All was as it should be.
Pulling out of Penzance, I saw a pod of porpoises skipping the waves. It was a good omen, and we soon slid past the Cornish coast and into open water. My destination lay 45km south-west, where five inhabited islands (and many more uninhabited ones) offered a glimpse of a gentler life – though they were far from the same. Each had its own character: St Mary’s was the lively hub; Tresco had fine beaches and subtropical gardens; St Martin’s was dreamlike; St Agnes had an Enid Blyton-esque feel (and lashings of ice cream); and Bryher was rugged and wild.
Grey seals thrive on the island (Shutterstock)
As I travelled the islands, I couldn’t help but be struck by the ever-changing landscapes. One minute I was climbing through heathland gorse and heather, the next I was dipping into coastal forests or passing wetlands. I could spend a morning beachcombing and swimming in secluded bays and an afternoon exploring hilltop fortifications and burial chambers, all at my own leisurely pace.
For many, wildlife is the main lure here. Boat safaris in search of dolphins, porpoises and seals dominate itineraries. Birders have a good chance of seeing puffins, Manx shearwaters, guillemots, razorbills, shags and fulmars at various times of the year. Even the flora entrances. The showy agapanthus, with its large purple and white flowers that are synonymous with the islands, often caught my eye.
Between exploring coastal paths, prehistoric monuments and ancient shoreline churches, I tried to slow down. I strolled dozing settlements, pottered in shops and lost all sense of time searching for cowrie shells. The summer high season meant boats were more frequent and I could maximise my stay here – and catch the gig-boat racing season – but there’s just so much to fit in. That’s the trouble with slowing down – you eventually run out of time.
“‘Aggy! Aggy! Aggy! Oi! Oi! Oi!’ is all you can hear from the St Agnes spectator boats, fuelled with competitive Scillonian spirit. Follow the weekly gig races (ladies on Wednesdays, men on Friday nights); it’s the high point of the Scillonian summer for visitors and locals alike. The varied race courses over the season take you on an exploration of not just Scilly’s natural beauty, but also its rich culture and history. Centuries ago, the gigs raced to vessels needing guidance and to assist shipwrecks; today these very same boats are symbols of Scillonian identity.”
- Sam Hicks, Troytown Farm, St Agnes
Racing of the gigs (Alamy Stock Photo)
Your break begins the moment you step onto the Friday-morning Scillonian ferry. Grab brunch onboard, scour the ocean for sea life and take in the first views of the islands and their striking granite rock formations. After checking into St Mary’s hilltop Star Castle Hotel, stroll Hugh Town, exploring its galleries, gift shops and beaches. In the early afternoon, depart on a smaller boat for sleepy St Martin’s island and head to the bohemian Little Arthur Farm (littlearthur.co.uk) for afternoon tea and a bird’s-eye view of the bay. Climb to the stone cottages of Higher Town before crossing the island to Lower Town via near-empty lanes that drop away to Caribbean-blue waters and rocky ‘ledge’ islets. Bear in mind that timings depend on the tides, so plan accordingly. Back on St Mary’s, enjoy fresh seafood at the Mermaid Inn in the harbour, then spend the evening watching the racing of the gigs (six-oared rowing boats). These events run twice-weekly throughout the summer, and the best views are found aboard the St Mary’s spectator boat that follows the gigs, so you can noisily cheer on your team as they go.
Cromwell Castle (Shutterstock)
Get the first boat of the morning to Tresco, the upmarket island. If you land at New Grimsby Quay, walk the coastal path to Cromwell’s Castle (pictured top), built in 1651 after the defeat of the Scillonian Royalists. Climb to the top of the defence (free entry) and enjoy views of the anchorage that sits on the narrows between Tresco and Bryher. A short climb leads you to the ruins of King Charles’ Castle, an artillery fortress built during the reign of Edward VI – the name ‘Charles’ refers to the Royalists who occupied it before their defeat. Cross the heathland to Old Grimsby and the Ruin Beach Café. Next, climb to the Old Blockhouse, another Edward VI fortification that was built to keep the French at arm’s length. Amble the beaches of Pentle Bay searching for shells – periwinkles, whelks and, if you’re lucky, much-prized cowries – then cross the wetlands to Tresco Abbey to meander its 19th-century subtropical gardens, strolling hidden pathways and ruins and grabbing lunch in the tearoom. Take the mid-afternoon boat back to St Mary’s (check the departure point) in time for your evening sail on the Scillonian back to Penzance.
The ruined archway of Tresco Abbey (Shutterstock)
Shop in the independent stores of Hugh Town on St Mary’s. Slip into Silver Street Gallery for local art, peruse the beach-chic IoS-branded clothing of 49 Degrees and search for island mementos in Stone Shop and Tideline. When you’re all shopped out, grab a takeaway coffee and head for one of Hugh Town’s three nearby beaches.
Eat between the tumbledown walls of the Ruin Beach Café gardens and soak in views of Raven’s Porth beach and the anchorage of Old Grimsby Harbour. From its wood-burning oven arrive plates of wood-fired pizzas and the smoky flavours of succulent meat, fish and vegetable platters.
Ramble the coastal paths of Tresco. Highlights on the west side include views over Appletree Bay and Bryher from the castle defences. Gentler rambles on the east side take in coastal woodlands, ponds and wetlands around Tresco Abbey. For a leisurely bimble, walk the alabaster beaches of Pentle Bay, combining your stroll with a spot of beachcombing.
Drink at Karma on St Martin’s, a holistic spa hotel in Lower Town. This series of adjoining cottages has been built to blend in with the island’s low-key architecture. Sip wine from the sandy shoreline garden as you wait for your return boat to St Mary’s (tides allowing).
Aerial view of the Star Castle Hotel (Star Castle)
Getting there: Take the Night Riviera Sleeper train from London Paddington to Penzance, then hop on the Scillonian ferry to St Mary’s for the ultimate in ‘slow travel’. If you’re short on time, you can also fly. One-way flights with Skybus to St Mary’s go from Land’s End, Newquay, and Exeter, taking 20, 30 and 60 minutes respectively.
Stay at: Star Castle Hotel on St Mary’s is a 16th-century fort that was turned into a four-star stay. It gets its name from the eight-pointed star configuration of its walls, and visitors can choose from 38 castle rooms, guardrooms, garden rooms and suites with views over the sea, gardens or veranda. The defensive castle may appear austere from the outside, but inside it’s soft and welcoming. Grounds include subtropical gardens and a pool, plus there’s also complimentary golf. Doubles from £418 (all inclusive).
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