Vilnius – or at least its centre – is a riot of renaissance and gilded baroque architecture, with a Catholic cathedral and café-filled courtyards. Despite being on the same latitude as York, it felt to me almost Latin in atmosphere – a sense heightened by the giant posters of Pope Francis, advertising his imminent visit. This appeared a tad awkward alongside the city’s official tourism slogan, which is, ahem: ‘Vilnius, the G-spot of Europe. Nobody knows where it is, but when you find it – it’s amazing.’
I tried to reflect a little more chastely on what I had found on my jam-packed Baltic journey. It had been a feast of hauntingly wild places with huge tracts of emptiness to play in. Landscapes and modernised life had slipped along gently, but with captivating cities and a tumultuous past to provide ballast. Yet something was stirring. A century after this trio had gone their separate ways, tearing towns in two and leaving a sense that a return to the dark days of Soviet rule was never far away, there seemed to be renewed optimism. This felt like three very unique Baltic nations finally looking to the future and not, for once, somewhere in between.
The trip
The author travelled with Explore! (01252 883188), which offers seven-night Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania on Foot guided group departures between May and September 2019.
Accommodation
Go Hotel Shnelli is a contemporary three-star affair near Tallinn’s main railway station. It is worth asking for one of the rooms with a view over the old town.
Outside the capital, Viinistu Art Hotel is a converted fish factory spectacularly set on the dramatic shores of the Gulf of Finland, at the edge of Estonia’s Lahemaa National Park.
Over the border in Latvia, the grand old manor house of Hotel Cesis is set in beautiful gardens not far from the centre of Cesis town, near Gaujo National Park.
In the Latvian capital, Riga’s Hanza Hotel is a slightly quirky three-star with a buzzing beer cellar; it’s not far from ‘Stalin’s birthday cake’ and a few minutes’ walk from the old town.
In Lithuania, Nida’s Jurate Hotel has been converted from a post office into a scenic stay on the lagoon side of the Curonian spit.
And lastly, on the edge of Vilnius’ Old Town lies Panorama Hotel. This modern three-star hotel is a few minutes’ walk from the centre and has fine views from its upper-level windows.