New England’s wildest state has seawater in its veins. Even today, its historic ports, lauded seafood and abundant sailing still set the pace for visitors...
'May you have fair winds and following seas,’ reads the billboard that sits above the entrance to Portland’s Old Port. It’s a message that captures much of what makes coastal Maine such an inviting slice of New England. The inhabitants of this beautiful, wild north-eastern state are a liberal, hospitable bunch and seafaring traditions still run deep in their souls. Fundamentally, you’ll always be welcome in these parts, and if you’re not on a boat already, you’ll never be too far from one.
Welcoming visitors is a longstanding tradition in The Pine State. Indeed, this year marks the 100th anniversary of the Maine Tourism Association, a not-for-profit organisation that has been promoting travel to the region since 1922. In fairness, they have plenty to work with, and it’s not hard to understand how the state earned the nicknamed ‘Vacationland’, even if those outside the USA perhaps aren’t as familiar with it.
Portland Head Light (George Kipouros)
The history of Maine is rich, dense and tied to the sea. Norsemen sailed this coastline in the 11th century, while the Wabanaki, a collective name for the many Indigenous nations of Maine, were navigating these coastal waters by canoe long before then. The modern state traces its roots to the Europeans who settled here at the dawn of the 16th century, though some claim John Cabot’s first European exploration of mainland North America dropped anchor off Maine in 1497. Over the years, the state duly became recognised as an important centre for boat building and a mecca for fishing and lobstering – two industries that are still very much a part of everyday life here.
The sparse population of the state, its largely unspoilt shoreline and its similarly untouched interior make Maine a joy to explore. Home to 32 state parks and the only national park in New England, opportunities for the intrepid to reconnect with nature are innumerable. Its landscapes have certainly inspired their share of visionaries. This coastline has honed some of the country’s most celebrated artistic talents, with names such as Edward Hopper and Winslow Homer finding their muse on its shores. Today, the art scene continues with a wealth of galleries, artistic communities and a packed calendar of events everywhere you look.
While, historically, the state is far more popular with Americans than the international set, coastal Maine takes many of the quintessential traits of New England and distils them into an easily navigable and hugely rewarding road trip. From elegant Camden to the wilds of Mount Desert Island, you’ll never be short of a day out – or a lobster roll.
Ogunquit (Shutterstock)
In the language of the indigenous Abenaki people, Ogunquit means ‘beautiful place by the sea’, and it’s easy to see how the area settled on that name. Just over the border from New Hampshire, this quaint town is an artsy, theatrical, liberal, LGBTQ+-friendly haven of a place that’s particularly well set up for families. The area has some of the best beaches in the state, including the 5km-long Ogunquit beach, a magnificent stretch of golden sand just east of town. Despite its ample size, it tends to get extremely busy in the summer, so to avoid the crowds, try the equally expansive Footbridge Beach a little to the north, or the aptly named Little Beach, near the lighthouse. Both are just as dreamy.
Portland’s arts, culture, culinary and brewing credentials punch well above its modest size. When wandering the town’s cobbled alleys, passing old redbrick industrial buildings that now play host to galleries, hip cafés and museums (including the state’s acclaimed Portland Museum of Art), it’s easy to see why it’s become one of the coolest small cities in the USA.
One of the best ways to experience the sights, sounds and smells of Portland is by taking a walking tour. There are various tailored itineraries available, from historical strolls to gastronomy tours exploring the town’s vibrant (sea)food scene, with ingredients sourced directly from the working waterfront. The ‘working’ element of that sentence is especially important to locals: the city’s fishing and boat-building industries ensure a year-round population; it’s this bustle, authenticity and charm that separates it from the more preppy, pristine towns you’ll find further along the coast. When a tour guide proclaims the dockyard of Portland to be one of the most beautiful sights in the state, it’s hard not to agree.
Just out of town, sitting proudly atop the headland of Cape Elizabeth, Portland Head lighthouse and its former keeper’s house (now a museum) is a quintessential sight of the state. Some 65 lighthouses, of all shapes and sizes, dot Maine’s extensive coast, but the most famous, most photographed (with good reason – it’s beautiful) and oldest of them all is Portland Head Light, which has been safely guiding mariners into Casco Bay since 1791.
Portland Head Light is just one of 65 lighthouses that scatter the 5,600km of coastline (George Kipouros)
Portland's Old Port (George Kipouros)
For those who love the outdoors, Acadia NP is a paradise. Set primarily on Mount Desert Island and home to the highest rocky headlands on the USA’s Atlantic coast, its landscape was carved by glaciers 18,000 years ago and the park is home to some of the wildest scenery on the Eastern Seaboard. With its crystalline freshwater lakes and craggy coastline, Acadia is home to hundreds of scenic hiking and biking routes. The adrenaline-inducing 5km Precipice Trail (a via ferrata-style ascent using iron rungs driven into the cliff face) is one of the more extreme examples, but there are plenty of easier, more sedate escapes for those who just want to stroll, such as the looping 4.5km Acadia Mountain trail, which has great views over the fjord-like Somes Sound.
For those unable to hit the trails, or who would just rather stay in the car, there’s the equally impressive Park Loop Road drive (43km), which connects the island’s eastern lakes, shores and forests. Or take the quick 5km Summit Road to the top of Cadillac Mountain for an incredible vista without having to break a sweat. Weather-wise, the best time to explore here is during mid-summer, but this is also when the park is at its busiest, so be sure to book well in advance. Alternatively, arrive for the shoulder months to have the trails to yourself.
Nearby Bar Harbor is a bustling seaside resort and a good base for exploring Acadia NP. While there, pay a visit to the Abbe Museum, which is dedicated to exploring the history and culture of the Wabanaki.
There are many quaint small towns along Maine’s coast, but Camden surely takes the crown for the prettiest. Gazing across a harbour backed by forested hills and decorated with buildings in the characteristic Queen Anne, Shingle and Federal styles common to New England, you’ll see the sails of its famous Camden fleet of windjammers (merchant-style sail boats). This stretch of Penobscot Bay is nicely sheltered, and the Windjammer Festival, one of the largest meetings of sail ships in north-east USA, gathers here every Labor Day weekend in September.
Camden is Maine’s sailing capital (George Kipouros)
It certainly sets a preppy tone. Well-heeled tourists flock to Camden every summer to meander its art galleries, shops and restaurants. For the more adventurous, not far from town lies over 50km of pristine trails in the heavily forested Camden Hills State Park, where those who climb Mounts Battie or Megunticook are rewarded with views over the bay.
In contrast to Camden, neighbouring Rockland – just the other side of the peninsula – has a year-round population that doesn’t dwindle so much in the quiet months due to its busy port and fishing industry. It is also home to two of the finest art museums in the state, with the Centre for Maine Contemporary Art (CMCA) joined by the impressive Farnsworth Art Museum, which is home to a 15,000-strong collection that features some of the most iconic pieces to come out of Maine over the last 200 years, including works by Hopper, Rockwell Kent and Louise Nevelson.
Farnsworth Art Museum explores two centuries of American art (George Kipouros)
A Maine-style lobster roll (George Kipouros)
Despite measuring a little over 350km in length from north to south, the many coves, bays, capes and isles of Maine’s craggy shores mean the state actually packs in some 5,600km of meandering coastline. This encompasses pristine beaches, stark rocky outcrops, serene backwaters, thousands of islands and myriad different ways to explore.
One of the best options for hopping the Maine coast is to take a trip on a traditionally rigged sailing boat. Spend an afternoon with the Portland Schooner Co or take longer, multi-day excursions with the folks at Rockland Windjammer Cruises. Lobstering is also part of the fabric of Maine, and for those looking to understand more about how it’s done, its sustainability (some of the most stringent measures in the world are found here) and even get their hands dirty hauling up pots, there are tours aplenty, such as those aboard The Lively Lady with Camden Harbour Cruises.
Anyone looking for more active exploration will find opportunities for kayaking, canoeing and paddleboarding. A more cost effective – and equally pleasing – way to get out on the water and exploring Maine’s islands is to simply book a ticket with the Maine State Ferry Service, which runs dozens of routes connecting the mainland to lesser populated isles.
Whether you walk or drive, Maine has thousands of trails to choose from, not least the wilderness routes in parks such as Acadia and Camden Hills. Mount Katahdin is also the start/finish of the 3,450km-long Appalachian Trail, a hiking route that crosses 14 states as it makes its way south from Maine to Georgia. If you just want a taste of its paths you can walk a few small sections; alternatively, there are trails that take in the history of the state. Themed routes include the Maine Art Museum Trail, which is a driving route linking up the state’s biggest arts institutions, and the Maine Lighthouse Trail that connects its 65 lighthouses.
The food, beer and arts scene in Maine is booming, and you’ll never be short of quality options to eat out, drink local or see live music (particularly in Portland – the cultural hub of the state). Maine has played a trailblazing role in the US farm-to-table movement, with locally sourced ingredients everywhere you go, while its legendary lobster, clam chowder, and “America’s best-tasting oysters” make it a haven for fresh seafood. The Pine State is also famous for its thriving beer-brewing scene, maple syrup and wild blueberries (try salted blueberry butter with your steak or lobster – just trust us). Lower financial pressures for chefs and restaurateurs have allowed them to push the culinary boundaries here and achieve recognition far beyond the state’s size; Portland is regularly named one of America’s top food destinations, which for a city of barely 67,000 is pretty remarkable.
Inn by the Sea (George Kipouros)
Getting there and around: There are no direct flights from the UK to Maine. Portland International Jetport (PWM) is the best served hub in the state, with flights originating in the UK typically arriving via New York or Philadelphia. Bangor International (BGR) also offers a good number of connections, though bear in mind that the price of flights to Maine can skyrocket in high season. The state is best experienced by car, with road trips offering scenic routes and the complete freedom to explore.
Where to stay: Vacationland has a broad selection of traditional stays, such as the Inn By The Sea in Cape Elizabeth, which has intimate and luxurious lodgings that set it apart from the larger hotels. For those wanting to sample Portland’s nightlife, The Press Hotel (thepresshotel.com) makes for an excellent base.
When to go: The best time to visit is during the summer (Jun–Aug), when the weather is warm. This also makes it by far the busiest season, meaning the best accommodation, flights and experiences fill quickly and prices escalate, so book early. Alternatively, visit in September and October to enjoy the famous foliage of a New England autumn and to avoid the crowds.
The trip: Will and George travelled with the support of the Maine Office of Tourism. For more information on Maine, go to visitmaine.com.
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