The Bluegrass State is the home of bourbon, horse racing, bluegrass music and the mountains that inspired it – but rarely has an undiscovered gem looked so polished...
When it comes to Kentucky, most of us are familiar with its bourbon and a certain secret blend of herbs and spices that shot Colonel Harland Sanders to fame, yet the Bluegrass State is otherwise a mystery to many; just another rich flavour of ‘the South’. But that does it a huge disservice. Along with fine food and drink, classic Southern hospitality and some rugged hinterlands, there is plenty of nuance to be found here.
For a start, the ‘doorstep of the South’ is much more of a cultural crossroads, sharing its borders with seven other states. Nor is it as dry as you might think. Kentucky has more navigable waterways than anywhere in the US except Alaska, and it is this that fuels its two biggest icons: whiskey and horses. The state’s limestone-filtered water makes it ideal for bourbon production and provides the nutrients required to breed some of the world’s most exceptional thoroughbreds.
Most visitors start in Louisville (pronounced loo-a-vul), home of the Kentucky Derby and the state’s largest city. Sat on the banks of the Ohio River, it has a distinctly Midwest feel. It’s also a natural starting point for those undertaking the Kentucky Bourbon Trail (think an off-the-beaten-path Napa Valley, without the crowds). There is history in its streets and Old Town, too. The Seelbach hotel was once inspiration for F Scott Fitzgerald’s The Great Gatsby, while a thriving food scene is found in the city’s bars, where mutton barbecue and rolled (breaded) oysters offer temptation.
Louisville lights (Shutterstock)
Just over an hour’s drive to the west of Louisville lies Lexington. The Horse Capital of the World is a must-see on any Kentucky itinerary, and you don’t have to be a connoisseur to appreciate its countryside. The city has a more Southern feel, while the surrounding region is a patchwork of bluegrass fields, the signature grass that gifted the state its nickname and its horses their oomph.
For adventure, there are 45 state parks and six national parks here (including the birthplace of Abraham Lincoln). Waterfalls, giant sandstone arches and huge subterranean networks lure explorers, and in the west of the state, Mammoth Cave NP is home to the longest cave system on the planet, with over 650km of passageways.
The state parks, in particular, feel less saturated than many others in the US. There is just room to breathe here, whether hiking trails, kayaking or keeping an eye out for the state’s black bears, which have returned in their hundreds since they were all but eradicated in the early 20th century.
For sheer spectacle, finish in the canyons of Red River Gorge National Geological Area, a part of Daniel Boone National Forest. It lies in the east of Kentucky, in the Appalachian foothills made famous for the music they inspired. There really is something for everyone in the Bluegrass State.
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Charming Old Louisville is one of the largest preservation districts in the US. It lies south of the city’s downtown, and a walking tour of the neighbourhood should be high on your to-do list. The area owes a debt to the Southern Exposition fairs of the 1880s, which led to the expansion and development of the largest collection of Victorian mansions in the country. The area is characterised by grand houses and ‘walking courts’, with rows of mansions facing each other over communal green spaces. It’s all very civilised, and the perfect setting for the biggest Shakespeare festival in the US, with free nightly performances in Central Park in May and August. Cave Hill Cemetery is also a fascinating place to explore, and Muhammad Ali and Harland Sanders are both buried there.
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The region surrounding Lexington is famous for raising some of the world’s best thoroughbred horses. But you don’t have to be a horse lover to appreciate it. The landscape here is outrageously beautiful and characterised by an abundance of Kentucky bluegrass. There are about 450 ‘horse farms’ in the region and many are open to the public to tour. Try Mill Ridge or the Kentucky Horse Park, which was founded in 1978. The park offers a well-rounded introduction to all things equine, and you can visit its Hall of Champions where former racehorses live out their retirement peacefully in the grassy fields.
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Get acquainted with the music that takes its name from the state’s famous grasses. Bluegrass was popularised by Kentucky native Bill Monroe in the 1940’s. More rootsy in nature than country music, its acoustic string bands captured the make-do spirit of the era. Owensboro is often dubbed the home of bluegrass and is where you’ll find its Hall of Fame and Museum. Live performances can be heard across the state, but nowhere is more iconic than Rosine Barn Jamboree in Bill Monroe’s hometown of Rosine, where free performances are held on Fridays (Mar–Dec).
Explore the Daniel Boone National Forest (Shutterstock)
Part of Daniel Boone National Forest, Red River Gorge lies an hour’s drive east of Lexington. The landscape is defined by sandstone crags and arches and makes for some awe-inspiring walks. There are ample wildlife-spotting opportunities, too, with the region being home to elk, black bears, eagles and peregrine falcons. And if you’re in search of a mid-hike carbo-load, Miguel’s Pizza (miguelspizza.com), near the small town of Slade, is so good that it seems to be known by anyone who has ever visited the region, and makes for a great lunch spot in between trails.
Visit a bourbon distillery (Shutterstock)
Kentucky produces about 95% of the world’s bourbon whiskey, so touring a distillery is a must. Even if you don’t partake in the tastings, the history of bourbon is fascinating. Despite 13 years of nationwide prohibition from 1920 onwards, many here were able to continue producing it under a ‘medicinal’ licence. There are more than 70 distilleries across the state, and 18 of the most prominent are highlighted on the Kentucky Bourbon Trail – there is also a ‘craft’ version that takes in more. But if you only want a quick introduction, Buffalo Trace claims to be the oldest continuously operating distillery in the US, even if it isn’t on the official Trail. Located in scenic Frankfort, it even has National Historic Landmark status. It also runs free tours (and tastings), but these are very popular, so book early. If you want to sample an urban distillery, Evan Williams in Louisville is highly recommended, whereas those with a sweet tooth should try Rebecca Ruth Chocolates, which has been hand-crafting ‘bourbon balls’ in Frankfort since 1919.
Cumberland Falls, Kentucky (Shutterstock)
SUP Kentucky offers kayak and paddleboard tours in three of the state’s wildest settings. The most spectacular is a visit to an underground mine in the Red River Gorge where kayaks are lit up by LED lights as you navigate dark subterranean tunnels. Expect to see Kentucky brown bats, huge rainbow trout and underground waterfalls while learning an astonishing amount about the local geology. SUP Kentucky also run tours that allow you to chase waterfalls in Grayson Grotto, 100km north of Red River Gorge, and at the huge Cumberland Falls (the ‘Southern Niagara’), which lies a similar distance to the south.
Getting there: There are currently no direct flights from the UK, but both Louisville’s Muhammad Ali International (the ‘Louisville Lip’ was one of the city’s most famous sons) and Lexington’s Blue Grass airports are well served by United, American Airlines and Delta for those visiting central Kentucky, with connections in Chicago, Washington Dulles or Charlotte. Further north, Cincinnati/Northern Kentucky Airport also sees plenty of domestic flights.
Where to stay: If you appreciate luxury and want to see what Louisville looked like in the Roaring Twenties, the Brown Hotel lives up to its elegant billing; it has even hosted four US presidents. You should also definitely try its ‘hot brown’ – an open-faced turkey sandwich with bacon and Mornay sauce – in the jazzy second-floor lobby. Elsewhere, the brand new Elwood Hotel in Lexington is the perfect base to explore the surrounding horse country; or for those wanting an off-grid escape, Red River Gorgeous Treehouses in Red River Gorge has sustainable ‘wilderness cabins’ that let you soak in the sights and sounds of the surrounding forest.
Local tip: The best time to visit is between April and October. Locals often advise you don’t plan anything until after the Kentucky Derby, which takes place on the first Saturday in May. This is largely because the weather can be unpredictable. Unless you are a true horse-racing fan, you may want to avoid Louisville on Derby weekend; hotels are eye-wateringly expensive at this time and many have a three-night minimum stay policy. Instead, set your sights on Keeneland in either April or October. Nestled in the heart of horse country, it’s a good chance to sample an authentic Kentucky horse-racing day out and to rub shoulders with racing’s elite at the famed Track Kitchen restaurant, which is fully open to the public.
More info: kentuckytourism.com
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