Rebecca Hallett | 10 February 2023
How to get off the beaten track in Japan
Escape the crowds and see a more authentic side of this culturally rich country
Escape the crowds and see a more authentic side of this culturally rich country
Japan is full of iconic sights: the organised chaos of Tōkyō’s Shibuya Crossing; the symmetrical peak of Mount Fuji; ornately dressed maiko gliding down Kyōto’s historic streets. They’re all popular for a reason, and well worth seeing. But to get a deeper understanding of this fascinating and diverse country, you need to step off the beaten path. We’ve teamed up with InsideJapan Tours to show you how.
The ancient capital of Kyōto is known for its refined Kyō-ryōri cuisine. Each delicious dish uses delicate cooking methods to bring out the flavour of its local, seasonal ingredients – tender river fish, umami-rich mushrooms, and polished white rice. To see where these all-important ingredients come from, take a train into the mountains north of the city to Ayabe, also known as Kyōto’s kitchen. The small rural city is surrounded by rippling rice paddies, neat rows of tea bushes and dense forests, punctuated with thatched minka farmhouses.
With InsideJapan, you can even visit some of these minka to learn more about Ayabe’s food culture, sitting down for a meditative tea ceremony using locally made matcha, or taking a cooking class with the very freshest ingredients. Save some time to stop at Wakamiya Brewery, where you can try light, refreshing sake made from the Ayabe’s high-quality rice and clear water.
For hundreds of years, the Nakasendō road was the main route between the Imperial court in Kyōto and the samurai government in Tōkyō. Everyone from princesses to pilgrims, merchants to military leaders followed the path through central Japan’s densely forested mountains, stopping along the way at post towns.
Even today, stretches of the atmospheric cobbled road still exist, with one of the most beautiful following the Kiso valley. Start in well-preserved Magome, its black-and-white wooden buildings flanking a steep path into the mountains. After Magome Pass you’ll reach a serene stretch of forest. Slow down, breathe deeply and enjoy walking mindfully through the trees. You’ll quickly understand why forest bathing has become a popular preventative health measure in Japan, linked to lower stress and improved mood.
After following the Nakasendō for three therapeutic hours you’ll reach Tsumago, another atmospheric juku, restored and preserved by the local community. Immerse yourself in Tsumago at its best by staying overnight, so you can experience it softly lit and quiet in the evening after the day-trip visitors have gone home.
Sitting at the foot of the Northern Japan Alps, the small city of Matsumoto has a welcoming feel. Stroll through the Nakamachi district to see lovingly maintained lattice-fronted kura (traditional warehouses), now home to a generations-old craft shops, chic cafés and even a tap room for the local craft brewery.
The city’s crowning jewel is Matsumoto-jō, one of Japan’s oldest and most spectacular castles. Nicknamed Karasu-jō (Crow Castle) for its intimidating black façade, it dates back to the 16th century. Climb the steep staircases inside for a close look at samurai weaponry, and mountain views. At the neighbouring museum, you can learn more about the bushidō moral code followed by the samurai who defended the castle for centuries.
As well as being warriors, samurai were instrumental in developing Japan’s rich artistic and cultural life. Visit the Ukiyo-e and Folkcraft museums to explore their world, then stop at the City Museum of Art to be brought back up to date with Yayoi Kusama’s vibrant colours and dizzying patterns – she was born here in 1929.
Jutting out into the Pacific Ocean, the volcanic Izu Peninsula is known for its rugged coastline, soothing onsen and forest-shrouded peaks and you can see it all on a tour with InsideJapan. It’s a great destination for outdoor enthusiasts with plenty of well-maintained hiking trails. Enjoy dramatic scenery along the Irozaki and Jogasaki coastlines or follow the Kawazu Nanadaru trail inland to see seven beautiful waterfalls.
There are several good beaches and diving spots and Shimoda is a great place to base yourself for watersports. It also has some fascinating history and was one of Japan’s first ports to open to trade with the US in 1854 after 250 years of near total isolation. Learn more at Shimoda History Museum, and don’t miss the Black Ships Festival if you visit in May.
While it feels a world away from Tōkyō, Izu is actually easily accessible by train from the capital. Stay overnight if you can, to experience the area’s charms at a leisurely pace; opt for a ryokan for traditional hospitality, warming onsen soaks, and an exquisite kaiseki dinner made with local, seasonal ingredients.
The UNESCO-listed pilgrimage routes of the Kumano Kodō criss-cross the Kii Peninsula, winding through old-growth forests and along jagged coastline, passing steaming hot springs and mountain lodges along the way. Whether you’re walking the ancient ways, taking a barge along the Kumano River or admiring the serene shrines, days spent on the Kii Peninsula take on a timeless quality.
Perhaps the most iconic shrine in Japan is Nachi Taisha, the last of the Kumano Sanzan shrines, which sits at the crossroads of the Ohechi and Nakahechi pilgrimage routes. For the most scenic approach, follow the cobbled Daimonzaka staircase. After an hour, you’ll emerge from the bamboo groves and giant cedar trees to see the vermilion shrine perched next to Nachi-no-Ōtaki, Japan’s tallest waterfall. Stay overnight at a minshuku (family-run inn) to see the scene at its most peaceful.
Kanazawa produces around 98% of Japan’s gold leaf, so it’s no surprise that the city glitters with art and culture – not to mention gold-flecked ice cream. Stroll through the geisha districts of Nishi Chaya and Higashi Chaya or Nagamachi samurai quarter to see Kanazawa’s long history, still part of the city’s daily life today. Elegant Kenroku-en is one of the most admired gardens in Japan, and the neighbouring castle ruins provide insight into traditional building techniques as sections are restored.
The city is also home to some fabulous hidden gems like Myōryū-ji, sometimes called the “ninja” temple, full of trick doors and secret hiding spots and you can see them on a visit with InsideJapan. Contemporary culture doesn’t take a back seat in historic Kanazawa, either. The 21st Century Art Museum hosts cutting-edge exhibitions, while the D.T. Suzuki Museum effortlessly combines the Zen Buddhist philosopher’s work with arresting modernist architecture.
InsideJapan is the original and leading independent Japan travel specialist with a range of Small Group Tours and Self-Guided cultural adventures that get beneath the surface of Japan and it’s culture. Discover more inspiration and information on revealing tours to Japan by heading to the official InsideJapan website.
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