Derry-Londonderry and Donegal are two counties blessed with natural beauty that not only remain relatively untrodden but are also so close you can combine several highlights in the space of a few days...
The idyllic natural splendour that County Donegal boasts doesn’t always come in emerald shades. Surrounding its fringes are more than its fair share of butterscotch beaches, with many counted among the finest in Ireland. Serenely sheltered by steep, wooded hills, Kinnagoe Bay is a postcard-perfect curve of golden sands dotted by seaweed-strewn rocks in the Inishowen Peninsula. Just up the coast, Culdaff is a cream-coloured Blue Flag beach (widely recognised as the gold standard for beaches) that’s equally good whether you prefer windsurfing, wandering among its grassy dunes or surfing. Completing a trio of fine sands on the peninsula is Five Fingers Strand, a flaxen-hued crescent backed by some of the tallest marram grass dunes in Europe. Elsewhere around Donegal, the tricky climb through the dunes on the Horn Head peninsula is entirely worth it for the secluded Trá Mór – which literally translates as ‘big beach’ – while Ballymastocker Bay promises epic views of the Inishowen Peninsula as well as a toffee-tinged beach.
With such pristine beaches and its island status, it’s only natural for visitors to lean towards Ireland’s wild, rugged coastline. But watery adventures can be found inland as well, none more so than by kayaking or stand up paddleboarding the River Foyle. The 53km-long Foyle Canoe Trail is the best way to explore this waterway, beginning in the Donegal town of Lifford. Paddle through leafy countryside, where the banks are alive with sand martins during the summer, and spy the old fishing station of Gribben Quay. You’ll also pass through Derry-Londonderry, the ideal opportunity to head ashore and wander its ancient city walls and gothic architecture – guided stand-up paddleboarding tours are also available from the city along the river. Your kayaking adventure will then expand into the broader waters of Lough Foyle, where you can keep your eyes peeled for basking sharks and wading birds like ringed plovers and dunlins before gliding into the seaside town of Moville on the Inishowen Peninsula.
Only a handful of centuries ago, Ireland was cloaked in thick Celtic rainforest. This primal woodland has all but vanished – except in a small patch in Donegal on the Inishowen Peninsula only 15 minutes by road from Derry-Londonderry. Here, nature’s clock has been wound back to the island’s original state thanks to Wild Ireland, a sanctuary that has reunited animals with their ancestral lands by rehabilitating and nurturing abused and exploited wildlife. You’ll see animals that once roamed this ancient land freely like wolves, brown bears, wild boar and lynx, while the sanctuary’s lake is a playground for otters, ducks and swans. But you won’t just observe these animals in their historic habitat, you’ll learn about their Irish past and the plight they suffer today. The ultimate aim is to inspire the next generation of conservationists, with plenty of volunteering opportunities available to help with all manner of things at the sanctuary, including educating visitors on the animals and its cause.
The craggy, wave-battered cliffs of Malin Head are as far north as you can go in Ireland and this wild spot on the Inishowen Peninsula certainly has an end-of-the-world feel – yet it’s only an hour from Derry-Londonderry by car. The Malin Head Trail takes you straight to its epic viewpoint but passes several landmarks along the way, including the Lloyds Signal Tower (originally used during the Napoleonic Wars) and the roaring foamy waters of Hell’s Hole. You’ll spy rare birds like the corncrake, black-browed albatross and the sooty shearwater before reaching the headland’s tip and Banba’s Crown, named after Ireland’s patron goddess. But as well as its rugged good looks, Malin Head has played host to several cosmic stars. First, you’ll be treading in the footsteps of Luke Skywalker and co., as Star Wars: The Last Jedi was filmed on its shores, while Ireland’s northern frontier is also the finest place in the country to admire the neon-tinted streaks of the aurora borealis each winter.
One way to make Malin Head even more magical is to have an alpaca by your side. Sandwiched by Ireland’s most northerly point and Five Fingers Strand beach to the south is the Wild Alpaca Way, a unique experience that pairs walking in the rural hills of Donegal’s Inishowen Peninsula with your own woolly companion. The walks, run by the McGonagle family on their private patch at coastal Knockamany Bens, take around an hour and promise panoramic views of Malin Head and Five Fingers Strand, while on a clear day you can even spot Glashedy Rock and the Isle of Doagh. With over 20 alpacas now part of their family, these cuddly camelids have become the perfect walking partners, always happy to stop for photos yet being calm enough not to distract you from the natural drama going on all around.
So you’ve seen Malin Head on foot and with an alpaca. If you really want to crank up the adrenaline when you experience Ireland’s northernmost tip, clip yourself into a carabiner and go rock climbing on this rugged slice of coastline. Adventure company Donegal Climbing offers several guided tours led by highly experienced climber Bren Whelan for an alternative experience along the legendary Wild Atlantic Way. Whether you’re a beginner or veteran there’s a rock-climbing adventure for you, from abseiling down craggy sea cliffs to hidden coves to climbing past wave-splashed sea stacks with the wild Atlantic Ocean for your backdrop. Bren can even have you scrambling down to a secret sea cave that only the likes of seals, sea birds and basking sharks know about. Just make sure you keep an eye on where you put your hands and feet – the ruggedly handsome Malin Head can easily distract you when you’re climbing.
Glenveagh National Park is a true piece of natural art. Its 170 sq km wingspan is a mosaic of oak and birch forest, heather-clad mountains, spongy bogland and the shimmering Lough Veagh at its core, all of which are roamed by red deer, foxes, pine martens, peregrine falcons and golden eagles – the latter of which was extinct here until its reintroduction in 2000. This is prime walking country that’s only an hour in the car from Derry-Londonderry, with hiking trails webbing this wild patchwork for all kinds of walker, from leisurely lakeside strolls to more challenging hill treks among its leafy contours. Cyclists will also find plenty of pedalling routes weaving through the park. You’ll also notice the stately 19th-century Glenveagh Castle standing grandly on the lough’s shores, a Victorian mansion that was modelled on Balmoral. Guided tours of its flamboyant interiors and rich history are a treat.
Start planning your dream visit to Derry-Londonderry and Donegal now by heading over to the official website.
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