Unravelling Indonesia's UNESCO-listed Cosmological Axis of Yogyakarta

Yogyakarta, regarded as the heartland of Javanese culture, is where the two UNESCO World Heritage Sites of Borobudur and Prambanan have attracted intrepid visitors for decades. The Cosmological Axis of Yogyakarta and its Historic Landmarks site has just been inscribed on the UNESCO list in recognition of its outstanding universal value. Its core zone of 42ha is surrounded by a buffer of almost 300ha and arranged along a 6km south-north axis with sites in the City of Yogyakarta and the Regency of Bantul.

Javanese civilisation is based on long-held belief systems and values, with many traditions and art forms remaining relevant in contemporary life. The site’s cultural assets are connected physically and/or spatially through ceremonies, rituals, traditions and festivals still practised in and around Yogyakarta. Over the centuries, the Mataram Kingdoms adopted different beliefs, including Javanese animism, Hinduism, Buddhism, Islam and Western influences. This is evident in the city’s layout as well as its monuments, architecture, places of worship, ceremonies and festivals.

Yogyakarta’s central axis was laid out in the 18th century by Sultan Mangkubumi as a centre of government and Javanese cultural traditions. The city is the historic capital of a special economic region and the homeland for classical Javanese culture and arts, including textiles (batik), dance, painting, music (gamelan), shadow puppetry (wayang kulit) and silversmithing. These arts and crafts are actively supported by the Sultanate and can be admired in many places, with gamelan music, for example, performed at several venues.

This site’s north-south axis is positioned to link Mount Merapi (an active volcano rising in the north to 2,910m) and the Indian Ocean in the south. Central to this is the Inner Complex of the Kraton (Yogyakarta Palace or Keraton) and its squares (Alun-Alun Lor and Alun-Alun Kidul), with other key cultural sites lining the axis. Tuju Monument is situated at the northernmost point of this axis, while Panggung Krapyak Monument is at the southernmost point. Other key landmarks include the Taman Sari Royal Garden and the Great Mosque Complex.

The Kraton, with the Sultan’s Palace in its inner precinct, has been designed as a mini-universe. The various kratons of the Javanese sultans were considered by their inhabitants to be the centre of the Earth, regardless of their location. In addition to being the Sultan’s residence, the grounds of the Yogyakarta Kraton are also used for ceremonies and cultural activities. As a place of national pride, it’s always busy, and visiting it is considered a rite of passage for out-of-town Indonesians. The Kraton is also a museum and repository for sacred possessions and relics of the sultanate, as well as gifts presented to it. Visitors can also enjoy regular music, dance, and puppetry performances at inner pavilions within the grounds.

Other places of interest near the site include five curved, arched gates that connect to the Kraton. Known as plengkung in Bahasa Indonesian, the best known are Plengkung Gading, Plengkung Nirbaya and Plengkung Tarunasura. Taman Sari (Water Castle), a former royal bathing area within the Kraton Complex, features four distinct precincts, including a most picturesque bathing area. Here, two large pools are separated by a three-storey watchtower. An underground mosque (Sumur Gumuling), located in a landscaped courtyard, is accessible via a staircase and tunnels.

The Great Mosque Complex, or Gedhe Kauman Mesjid, was built in 1773. It is located just west of Kraton’s northern public square, and its three-layered red roofline is a notable feature. Nearby, Jalan Malioboro is Yogyakarta’s main shopping and commercial area and its liveliest street, with shops, restaurants, food vendors and hawkerstalls. It’s a superb venue to stock up on local crafts, and don’t be afraid to bargain. Venture into the Pasar Beringharjo market, which has been delivering the best deals since 1758. Locally grown coffee, including kopi luwak (weasel coffee), is abundant; it is Java, after all.

​​The new UNESCO site is a vibrant living museum that celebrates the past in a modern and ever-developing Yogyakarta. The recent inscription of the Cosmological Axis of Yogyakarta and its Historic Landmarks Site provides a new focus for Yogyakarta’s cultural heartland, centred on the Sultan’s Palace.

Need to know

Location: Southern-central Java, 560km southeast of the Indonesian capital, Jakarta.

Getting there: There are no direct flights to Indonesia from the UK. Malaysia Airlines flies to Kuala Lumpur from London Heathrow, with onward flights to Jakarta. Emirates flies from Stansted with a similar flying time and a Dubai transit. There are domestic carriers on the Jakarta-Yogyakarta route, like AirAsia. An alternative is the six-hour train journey in luxury class.

Getting around: Navigate Yogyakarta’s historic tourist precinct on foot. Taxis and Grab (share ride app) are plentiful, while adventurers can use a becak (trishaw) or andong (horse carriage). 

When to go: The dry season is best, April until October. 

Accommodation: The original section of the Phoenix Hotel Yogyakarta M Gallery Collection was declared a heritage building in 1996 for its eclectic 19^th-century architecture.

Further information: Enchanting Indonesia (John Beaufoy Publishing, 2019) by David Bowden or Lonely Planet Indonesia (2016) by Loren Bell et al.

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