How to tango like a pro in Buenos Aires, Argentina

Always dance in an anti-clockwise direction at a milonga (group class).

Men: Wear shoes that can move smoothly across the floor (ie not trainers).

Women: It's best if you wear small heels, as this facilitates the necessary inward 'lean' for the embrace. You can also get tango shoes with bendy soles, which helps a lot.

Palermo, Recoleta and San Telmo are all rather well-heeled barrios (neighbourhoods) and full of sights, but Buenos Aires is a very walkable city: take in Almagro, Barracas, Villa Crespo and Chacarita to see its more authentic areas.

Argentinian banks only change money for account holders these days. Take US dollars, as UK pounds are pretty much almost impossible to change, even in a casa de cambio.

Such as... 'el ocho' (figure of eight step), 'al suelo' (keeping the soles of the feet close to the floor) and 'quebrada' (the angled posture of both dancers, which was considered indecent in the early days).

You might catch a live tango or folk show at Torquato Tasso (torquatotasso.com.ar) or La Trastienda (latrastienda.com).

Look for social clubs (clubes sociales) – often attached to local sports teams – or eat where you see taxis parked. Club Eros is a great cheap eatery in Palermo.

'Motel' here usually means by-the-hour rooms for lovers who can't do it at home; they're often quite nice, but 8 hours will set you back, even if it impresses the hotel employees.

Forget Strictly: that's not Argentine tango but 'show' tango, and if you did it at a milonga you'd get a black eye before your flying elbows gave someone else one.

Take a few classes at home before your trip, so you can relax and enjoy the dance in its natural home.