France’s south-eastern department is more than the bucolic countryside of a Peter Mayle novel; it’s rocky fringes and historic towns have a majesty travellers often miss...
Provence typically conjures up images of rolling green hills, endless rows of lavender fields and honey-stone hilltop villages, but in reality this area is much wilder than you might think. Its setting lies in the south-eastern corner of France, better known as the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azure region, which is one of the country’s most diverse areas: a place where you can be rubbing shoulders with the glitterati in Cannes one day and scaling limestone peaks or skiing in the mountains the next. The Alpes-de-Haute-Provence department is where this landscape shifts up a gear, revealing an increasingly steep terrain until it meets the jagged band of snowy summits that make up the southernmost portion of the French Alps. This topography is heaven for adventurers, with all kinds of thrills on the menu, from hiking and rafting to cycling, canyoning and, of course, mountaineering.
In the south of the department lies the Verdon Natural Regional Park. Here you will find France’s answer to the Grand Canyon: Verdon Gorge, a breathtaking 25km-long ravine that sinks to a depth of 700m at points. The turquoise-green glacial waters of the Verdon River are a hotspot for watersports. Elsewhere, in the more remote reaches of the park, you may spy chamois, roe deer and wild boar roaming the land, while griffon vultures and golden eagles are known to patrol overhead. The rest of it is given over to the Plateau de Valensole, where endless lavender fields brighten the summer months.
The Verdan Gorge is the largest canyon in Europe and home to nesting griffon and cinereous vultures (Alamy Stock Photo)
One of many sandy shores found along the Verdon River (Joana Kruse/Alamy Stock Photo)
To the west, the UNESCO-listed Luberon Regional Natural Park straddles the department border, spanning vineyards, orchards and oak woods that sprawl beneath craggy limestone mountains. The Luberon area is well known for its medieval villages perchés (perched villages), which totter on steep headlands. The most famous lie in the neighbouring Vaucluse department, but don’t ignore those on the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence fringes; their cobbled streets and diminutive town squares are equally charming and far less crowded.
The prefecture of the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence is Digne-les-Bains, a sunny spa town and the self-proclaimed lavender capital of France – although plenty of towns make that claim. Regardless, it once charmed the Belgian-French explorer, writer and anarchist Alexandra David-Néel so much that she settled there in 1928. And as she discovered, there’s plenty more to see. Towards the border with Italy lies Mercantour National Park, the Mexican villas of Barcelonnette and the region’s ski resorts, promising fresh snow under a blue Provençal sky.
The Train des Pignes chugs its way across a viaduct en route to Entrevaux; tours of the L’Occitane en Provence factory tell the story of the global beauty brand, which was founded in Manosque in 1976
Enjoy a scenic ride on the Train des Pignes from Nice to the medieval city of Entrevaux. Cross the ancient stone bridge over the River Var and explore the maze of narrow twisting streets. Don’t miss the town’s cathedral, which has a wonderfully ornate Baroque interior. Then climb 150m to the 17th-century citadel for spellbinding views.
Discover France’s answer to the Grand Canyon on a rafting trip along the azure waters of the Verdon Gorge, starting in the pretty village of Castellane. Get a bird’s eye view of the gorge with a drive along the Corniche Sublime, a vertiginous road with hair-raising panoramas. Continue on to the Valensole Plateau, which transforms into a sea of lavender during the summer.
Do like the Romans did and immerse yourself in the natural hot springs of Dignes-les-Bains. The waters bubble at temperatures of up to 33°C and have been used for centuries to treat a range of ailments. Follow the Parcours de l’Eau walk through town and then jump on two wheels for a bike ride along the easy-going Sentier des Trois-Chapelles in the surrounding countryside.
Drive to Sisteron along the route that Napoleon took when he escaped his exile on Elba Island and marched on Paris in 1915. Explore this magnificent medieval village, which has a citadel that was once tasked with protecting the Kingdom of France. Step inside the Musée Terre et Temps to learn how humans have measured time through the years, then finish with a hike up the imposing Rocher de la Baume for views over the citadel and Durance River.
“The Forcalquier area is rich in medicinal plants and natural herbs that have been picked and used by herbalists for centuries. The plants that grow here have a particular quality owing to the geography of our region; at night they are exposed to the cold temperatures of the Alps and during the day they enjoy the sunshine of Provence. We like to say that our sky is the purest in Europe. Pastis is a very old tradition in this region, and we have been making ours since 1924.”
- Alain Robert is the owner of Distilleries et Domaines de Provence, which was founded in Forcalquier
Pretty Moustiers-Sainte-Marie has become a prime destination for gourmands in recent years (Guy Edwardes Photography/Alamy Stock Photo)
Train des Pignes
Ride one of France’s last surviving one-metre-gauge railway lines on board the Train des Pignes. This scenic steam train starts at Nice on the French Riviera and includes a stop at the historic town of Digne-les-Bains, passing over narrow viaducts and through pine forests and lavender fields along the way. cpzou.fr
Mexican villas of Barcelonnette
At the beginning of the 19th century, thousands of young men left the rural upper Ubaye valley and headed to Mexico to make their fortunes. When the ‘Barcelonettes’, as they were known, returned, they built grand villas in the popular Beaux-Arts style. One of these mansions, La Sapinière, has been turned into the Musée de la Vallée, which explores the history of the area. museedelavallee.fr
Moustiers-Sainte-Marie
Perched on a steep hillside in the heart of the Verdon Natural Regional Park is Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, a beautiful village known for its 12th-century cliffside church, its ‘Moustiers Faïence’ ceramics and the Bastide de Moustiers inn and restaurant owned by celebrated French chef Alain Ducasse. moustiers.fr/en/moustiers-sainte-marie
In Digne-les-Bains you’ll find the house of explorer Alexandra David-Néel, who famously visited Lhasa, Tibet, in 1924, when it was off-limits to foreigners (Hemis/Alamy Stock Photo)
Distilleries et Domaines de Provence
Located in the Provençal town of Forcalquier, this distillery creates the region’s best pastis – a title that is hotly fought over. Check out the award-winning Henri Bardouin Pastis Grand Cru, made with 65 plants and spices. Seasonal monthly tours of the distillery are available, but you can visit the shop any time. distilleries-provence.com
L’Occitane en Provence
When Oliver Baussan started selling rosemary oil in a Provence market, he couldn’t possibly have imagined that the business would grow to be one of the most recognisable beauty brands in the world. Learn how the L’Occitane en Provence products are made on a guided tour of the factory in Manosque. fr.loccitane.com
Alexandra David-Néel House
The intrepid explorer and author Alexandra David-Néel settled in Digne-les-Bains in 1928 and lived there until she died, just before her 101st birthday. She travelled extensively in her lifetime and was the first European woman to visit Lhasa in Tibet. Her home in the town has been turned into a museum celebrating her travels and her work. alexandra-david-neel.fr
Mercantour NP is a paradise for hikers, with hut-to-hut routes that aren’t nearly as busy as those that you’ll find in the Northern Alps (Hemis/Alamy Stock Photo)
DRIVE the panoramic Col de la Bonette for a dizzying route along the highest asphalt road in Europe. This is one of the most famous drives in the Alps and has featured four times in the Tour de France cycle race. It reaches an altitude of 2,802 metres and also links the Ubaye Valley to the Tinée Valley in Mercantour National Park.
SWIM in the turquoise waters of the Lac de Sainte Croix, a large man-made lake surrounded by oak and pine trees that is one of the most beautiful escapes in all of Provence. During the summer months the lake is busy with locals picnicking on its sandy shores, cruising the water by pedal boat, and soaking up the Provençal sunshine.
HIKE artist Andy Goldsworthy’s Refuge d’Art trail, a 150km route that combines contemporary art and the lush scenery of the National Natural Geology Reserve of Haute-Provence. The entire hike takes around eight days, with the option to overnight in refuges along the way or pick a one-day itinerary to just get a taste.
SKI the slopes of Pra Loup under Mediterranean sunshine. Located in the Ubaye Valley, this purpose-built village is one of the largest ski resorts in the Southern Alps and offers some 180km of pistes and a skiable link with La Foux d’Allos. If that doesn’t take your eye, there’s snowshoe trails as well, with hiking guides ready to take you out into the forests.
The lavender fields of the Valensole Plateau come to life between mid-June and mid-August, when they are at their most colourful (Alamy Stock Photo)
Dignes-les-Bains
Villa Gaia
A family-run historical villa with beautiful gardens, welcoming hosts and top-notch dining options.
Mane
Le Couvent des Minimes
This 17th-century convent-turned-luxury hotel is home to France’s first L’Occitane spa and a Michelin-starred restaurant.
Barcelonnette
Villa Morelia
A 19th-century mansion house in a beautiful setting near the wilds of Mercantour National Park. It was built by a returning ‘Barcelonnette’ and sits within its own lush grounds.
Aiguines
Hôtel Grand Canyon du Verdon
This hotel has a dramatic setting – perched on the edge of the gorge – with vertiginous views to match. Try to bag a room with a terrace.
Moustiers-Sainte-Marie
La Bastide de Moustiers
A 17th-century farmhouse that has been turned into a homely hotel with a Michelin-starred kitchen by the pioneering French chef Alain Ducasse.
International dialling code: +33
Currency: Euro (€), currently around €1.13 to the UK£.
Getting there: There are regular flights from the UK to the four airports that give access to the department: Marseille-Provence, Nice-Côte d’Azur, Toulon/Hyères and Avignon-Provence.
Getting around: Self-drive is a popular way to get around the region, but you can also explore by bus; the Lines Express Régionales coaches cover the whole territory of the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence and serve both towns and small villages The Train des Pignes tourist train links Nice to Digne-les-Bains every day from May to October. Lastly, there are several TER (Transport Express Régional) trains that offer daily connections from Marseille to Sisteron, with coach transfers to the surrounding valleys.
Weather: This is a year-round destination. Summers are for hiking, cycling and rafting, while the ski resorts spring to life during the winter months.
Further information: tourisme-alpes-haute-provence.com
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