Syria travel guide
Exotic city break to Damascus or full-on desert adventure with the Bedouin: Syria is a welcoming and authentic trip back in time
Syria is one of the world's great unsung travel destinations. And it's unsung for a reason: the country's testy relationship with the West has largely protected its rich history and natural wonders from the erosions of tourism.
The size of the country means any visitor can pack plenty in. The classic route is north-south between the big cities, with an excursion to the desert halfway – but there are plenty of variations.
If you want a city-break, you have two great metropolises to choose from, each now boasting many characterful boutique hotels. There's the capital, Damascus – perhaps the world's oldest continuously inhabited city – and Aleppo, its equally venerable northern cousin, whose moody, all-dispensing souks seem to rise straight from some Biblical illustration.
History buffs can take their pick – Bronze Age relics, Crusader Castles, Ottoman remnants, some of the best ruins in the Roman empire – plus the lack of ropes or barriers at major sites makes the whole country a living museum. For wilderness lovers, great sweeps of Lawrence of Arabia desert are still home to Bedouin tribes, and firelit nights under the stars beckon.
More and more people are cottoning on that Syria is politically stable, safe, inexpensive and remarkably close to Europe. Just keep it to yourself.
Wanderlust recommends
- In Aleppo, explore the Citadel and medieval, sunbeam-lit souks – an atmospheric step back in time (note, souks are closed on Fridays; the citadel is closed on Tuesdays)
- In Damascus, visit a hammam (steam bath) - the Hammam Malek Zaher near the Umayyad Mosque hails from the 10th century but has now been sensitively modernised
- Stay overnight at Palmyra and rise early to see the sun rise over the town from the Arab castle
- Follow the mighty Euphrates to Deir ez-Zor, spending a night desert camping with the Bedouin en route
- Marvel at the colossal Krak des Chevaliers crusader castle
- Stop off at Hama, a great halfway point between Damascus and Aleppo where ancient waterwheels creak on the Orontes. Don’t miss the Azem Palace
Wanderlust tips
Women should dress modestly but there is no need to cover up excessively – a wander through Damascus' Christian quarter on a Thursday evening will make you wonder why you were even worried. However, bare flesh will get you the wrong sort of attention, so cover shoulders and tops of arms. Skirts to the knee are mostly fine but to be sure, wear loose-fitting long sleeves and trousers. Take a scarf in case you have to enter a mosque where none are provided.
Some men, especially in the countryside and in more conservative Aleppo, might not expect to shake hands with a woman. If in doubt, the hand-on-heart gesture is always polite and respectful.