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Afghanistan travel guide

Afghanistan's strategic location has guaranteed it a starring (and bloody) role in history – but its wild landscapes are only intermittently accessible by travellers

Slap bang at the crossroads between Central Asia, India and Persia, Afghanistan’s location has guaranteed it a starring role in the Silk Road trade, the hippie trail and, sadly, a string of bloody conflicts.

Unfortunately much of the country’s wildlife, architecture and infrastructure have been decimated by war, and the security situation remains highly volatile. Nevertheless, it’s no coincidence that tie-dye clad travellers once flocked to this ancient land of craggy mountains and poppy fields.

There are many draws: rugged scenery, spirited, hospitable people and an idiosyncratic culture where a perfect weekend involves flying bright kites and watching the traditional sport of buzkashi – polo played with a headless goat.

Although tourism is extremely small-scale, a handful of tour operators (including Wild Frontiers) do cater for expats, NGO workers and curious visitors. If you're considering a visit, monitor the security situation closely and ensure you are travelling with a knowledgeable and responsible operator.

Wanderlust recommends

1. Explore the Wakhan Corridor – This slender panhandle in the northeast is currently the most viable and secure region for travellers, offering rugged treks, Silk Road ruins, diverse wildlife and the fascinating cultures of the Wakhi and Kyrgyz peoples
   
2. Step out into the tranquil Panjshir Valley – Littered with Soviet tanks and a rich source of emeralds, the Panjshir Valley is one of Afghanistan's most infamous regions and a must visit for travellers
3. Gaze at multi-coloured kites in Kabul – Kites are out in force on the Kabul skyline during the winter months and there’s a no holds barred kite fighting festival during Nauroz, the Afghan New Year
4. Watch a wild game of buzkashi – Where polo is played using a goat carcass as the ball. You’ll need a strong stomach but it makes for a thrilling few hours
5. Wander around the Ka Faroshi Bird Market – Imagine what ancient Afghanistan might have been like
6. Picnic at the Band-e-Amir mineral lakes – Called the 'Lakes of Jewels', the five lakes  at Band-e-Amir glitter and seem to change colour during the day

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