Swaziland travel guide
Smiling Swaziland is southern Africa in miniature, a traditional kingdom with mountains and savannah, wildlife and time-honoured culture
The land-locked kingdom of Swaziland is tucked between South Africa and Mozambique but is very different to each. Conservative and traditional in some respects, it is also easy-going and relaxed, with a low crime rate and a very warm and friendly welcome.
This is an absolute monarchy, and although there have been a some political rumblings over the last few years King Mswati III remains a popular and respected figure. He is perhaps best known on the world stage for being a polygamist, with 14 wives at the last count, but it has to be said his father had many more. The people are proud of their king and proud of their culture, and traditional dress, clothing, beadwork and dance still survive.
Most visitors only use the country as a stopover and shopping opportunity en-route to Kruger National Park, but this is to do Swaziland a terrible disservice. This is a very easy destination for the traveller, a microcosm of southern Africa that has the culture, heritage, game reserves, scenery and activities that merit a stay in its own right. It might not have the awesome scale of its sprawling neighbours but at 200km across it’s not tiny either. And don’t they often say that the best things often come in small packages?
Wanderlust recommends
- Spot Rhino. Swaziland has a surprising wealth of wildlife. You can track rare black rhinos, or the more common white, on foot or by 4WD in Mkhaya Game Reserve. Lion, leopard and cheetah can all be found in Hlane Royal National Park
- Raft White Waters. Inflatable two-person ‘croc’ rafts are ideal to surf the rapids of Swaziland’s rivers: the most popular is the Usuthu River
- Ride Horseback with Wildlife. Thoroughbred horses and humble bicycles quietly find a path between antelope, giraffe and zebra in lovely Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary
- Take a Hike. There are some superb hikes in Swaziland’s north-western highlands, especially in the beautiful Malolotja Nature Reserve
- Shop till you Drop. Swaziland has strong traditions of handicrafts and folk culture: add coachloads of South Africans stopping off and it’s easy to see how the country has become a shopper’s delight. Traditional handicrafts, candles and glassware make good souvenirs
Wanderlust tips
Find a Festival. Swaziland is famous for its Umhlanga (Reed Dance) festival in August/September, when unmarried women parade in front of the king. The Incwala Festival celebrates the first fruits in massed displays in full warrior garb and is held in December or January: dates are chosen by astrologers. A more modern festival takes place in May: the Bush-Fire Festival is an international even of music and performing arts.