7 gastronomic experiences to have in Azerbaijan

Azerbaijani food is truly exciting, being strongly influenced by its climate, accompanied by an abundance of fresh produce and generations of traditional recipes passed down within families. Here are seven ways you can see it for yourself...

1. Plov

Given its popularity, plov could well be considered as the magnum opus of Azerbaijani cuisine. It is the centrepiece of a feast at special occasions and during the spring festival of Novruz. This aromatic dish is typically made with hashimi or long grain rice. Some versions involve the rice being cooked with onions, chunks of meat (usually lamb or beef), an array of dried fruit and steamed with saffron.

In some signature versions such as the shah plov the cooked rice is covered by a layer of a baked golden crust called gazmag which envelopes the dish. This crust is prepared with butter, flour and eggs although some recipes use a simpler option of lavash bread instead. No two plovs in the country taste the same as each region has its own adaptation and recipe. The shah plov is a must-try and can be relished in restaurants in Baku.

2. Dolma

A trip to Azerbaijan is incomplete without trying the delicate, stuffed grape vine leaves dish called yarpag dolmasi or dolma. Seasoned ground meat such as lamb or beef is mixed with rice and fresh herbs like dill, mint and cilantro which are all wrapped with tender grape vine leaves and cooked.

The Azerbaijani version differs mainly in size as it is petite and round in comparison. Served with a bowl of creamy garlic yogurt called sarimsaq gatyg, these morsels are a balanced treat. In many regions across the country, it is a community effort and a true labour of love for locals to sit together and wrap the vine leaves with the stuffing.

Though this is widely available in most restaurants across Azerbaijan, for a memorable meal in a former caravansary.

3. Kebabs

Kebabs are a favourite for many locals in Azerbaijan and Azerbaijani cuisine serves its own creation of the celebrated skewered and barbecued meat. Lula kebab is a unique variety relished throughout the Caucasus region. To make it, tail fat (known locally as quyruq; tail fat of sheep), onion, salt and pepper are added to the meat. The mixture is beaten well so that it does not fall apart, and after it's put on skewer, it is kept for a while so it holds together. Khan kebab is another local speciality, which is wrapped in caul fat. Lula kebab dates back several centuries and is often paired with sliced onions, lavash, grilled vegetables and a generous sprinkle of sumakh.

4. Sweet treats

Two of the must try sweet treats in Azerbaijan are pakhlava and shekarbura. The north-western region of Sheki is popular for many traditional Azerbaijani dishes but its sweets are impeccable, especially the halva. The dough is made from rice flour and is grid-shaped and is enjoyed all throughout the year.

Shekerbura is an ornate looking sweet pastry and is a dense mixture of crescent-moon shaped parcels made with nuts, sugar and has subtle hints of cardamom. Sheki Pakhlava is an excellent shop to buy authentic pakhlava to take away with you.

5. Tea

Tea is integral to the life of Azerbaijanis and is consumed throughout the day, often as straight black tea but sometimes blended with herbs, too. Black tea is widely harvested in the country’s Lankaran region in the south. An aromatic tea with wild thyme and other spices is also consumed to help fight a cold and is included in tea ceremonies. Tea plays a significant role in hospitality where tradition states that no guest should leave a house in Azerbaijan without having a cuppa together.

Azerbaijani tea is bold in its taste and consumed in a glass known as the armudu, meaning ‘pear-shaped’ which helps in keeping the tea hot for longer. Historically, men would gather in tea houses called chaykhana to drink tea and play board games. Azerbaijan’s tea culture has been inscribed onto the UNESCO Representative List of Intangible Cultural Heritage for Humanity.

6. Wine

Viticulture in the Land of Fire is deep rooted in its history. There are five primary winemaking regions— the shore along the Caspian Sea, Mountainous Shirvan, Sheki-Zaqatala, Ganja-Gazakh, and Karabakh region.

The grape varieties make unique wines that are a confluence of the West and East. Azerbaijani wine includes native varieties such as dry red Madrasa, Bayan Shira, Khindogni and Shirvanshahi along with international grape varieties such as Syrah, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Some of the most vibrant wineries are scattered in the picturesque region of Shirvan which shares proximity with both the Caucasus Mountains and the Caspian Sea. There are sprawling, excellent vineyards located in the lush province of Ismayilli and Agsu, where the soil comprises of clay and loam, requiring no artificial irrigation.

Chabiant winery Azgranata in Ismayilli is a great spot to sample some local use Azerbaijani wine such as the dry red Madrasa and Bayan Shira. Meysari, an organic wine champion, has a tasting room and a restaurant in Shamakhi plus stunning views of the vineyards.

7. Regional delicacies

Each region of Azerbaijan is known for at least one traditional dish. In Baku, dushbara are small dumplings filled with minced meat and onions and served in a hearty broth.

The mountainous region of Karabakh offers a treat called kata which is a rich, egg-washed sweet pastry that is widely sold in bakeries across Azerbaijan and comes in various sizes. The valleys and orchards of the mineral rich region Nakhchivan have an old tradition of preserving meats. Try the qovurma shorbasi, where aged meat is served in a warming stew with potatoes, plums and poached eggs.  

The southern Lankaran region’s most iconic dish is the lavangi, a medley of either chicken or fish with walnuts and onions, seasoned with alcha (green cherry plums). Though there are an array of soups and stews in Azerbaijan, piti from the northwest Sheki region is a truly special culinary experience as this slow cooked mutton stew is served in earthen pots and consumed in two parts. 

Feeling inspired? 

For more information and to start planning your visit to Azerbaijan, head over to the official Azerbaijan website. 

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