Just south of Dudhwa, monocultural sugarcane fields have encroached deep into the Terai. Amid them is a driveway of lychee trees that leads past a grandiose entranceway of Corinthian columns and onto a gravelled forecourt of royal palms fronting Jaagir Lodge. White-washed, art deco, with a terracotta-tiled veranda roof and ornate Indian motifs this 1940s colonial creation is eclectic eye candy.
Once a private residence used by British governors as a jungle lodge, it reopened, recently restored to its former glories. My bedroom was certainly sizeable enough to hide a tiger, perhaps behind the turquoise blue fabric armchairs or under the four-poster bed. From my room it was a short walk to the restaurant to dine with resident naturalist, Amith Bangre, over a vegetarian thali.
Full-bearded and stocky, the 32-year-old South Indian’s passion for wildlife is as fierce as a vindaloo. He began working in conservation aged 16 when he first encountered tigers in Karnataka. He dislikes crowded cities. “I’ve spent 330 days in the jungle over the last year,” he said as we planned forays into three of Dudhwa National Park’s tiger sanctuaries. The reserves are part of a nationwide network of some 50 sanctuaries that have helped reverse the decline of Indian tigers since the government’s initiative, Project Tiger back in 1973.
Amith said the ‘official’ estimate around Dudhwa is roughly 100 tigers. “I’d be surprised and happy if there was half that number,” he declared. But despite the successes of Kishanpur Wildlife Sanctuary’s forest conservation, these big cats are still being persecuted.
“Recently I found one dying in a snare,” Amith told me. “It was the unhappiest moment of my life. But I saw two tigers yesterday. You will find the experience here very different to sanctuaries like Ranthambhore (in Rajasthan) where 10 vehicles might be watching one tiger. These forests are remote and parts of them inaccessible so sightings are very special.” “We leave tomorrow at 5am for Dudhwa,” he announced, before departing for bed.
Yet what a magnificent place to look for them. The Terai Arc is a 34,000 sq km alluvial lowland mosaic of forests and swamps incised by the south-flowing Yamuna and Ganges rivers issuing from the Himalayas. Much of it is located beneath southern Nepal’s lower foothills but I would enter it from the Indian state of Uttar Pradesh to Dudhwa National Park’s seldom visited tiger sanctuaries.
Hosting rare biodiversity, the region, according to the International Union for the Conservation of Nature (IUCN), has some 500 tigers plus elephants and greater one-horned rhinos yet its landscapes are under increasing pressure from human encroachment and climate change.
I reached the Terai from Lucknow via a six-hour taxi ride south with a driver who dribbled mouthfuls of bright-red pan (an after-food mouth freshener made from betel). Lunch was sugary masala chai at a roadside stall with battered vegetable pakora straight from a pan of sizzling ghee.