10 of Sri Lanka's dreamiest sleeps

One of Sri Lanka’s oldest surviving hotels occupies an imposing 17th-century Dutch colonial building in storied Galle. For centuries, before Aman Resorts reimagined the site, it was known as the New Oriental Hotel, an institution woven into the rich tapestry of Asia’s best-preserved fortified city. With its double-height ceilings, original polished-teak floors, period furniture and 19th- and early-20th-century memorabilia dating from the building’s former lives, stays invite guests to experience a bygone era. It’s an atmospheric insight into the many chapters of UNESCO-listed Galle, and it’s not short of perks. All the rooms here enjoy king-size four-poster antique beds, freestanding baths and come with the exceptional, highly-personalised service Aman is known for. There’s no better place to experience Galle’s many layers of history than at Amangalla.

Booking information: Rooms from £340 per night (room only); amangalla.com     

The 15km-long Kalkudah Beach, on Sri Lanka’s east coast, is blissfully raw and undeveloped. Swathes of coconut palms sway gently overhead and dominate the white-sand coastline as far as the eye can see. Aside from net-wielding fisher families and fellow hotel guests, there’s barely another soul to be seen at this high-end glamping resort, which has been designed to be as low-impact as possible and blend discreetly into the serene setting. The 17 pared-back canvas suites have grand four-poster beds and outdoor showers, while vivid wall-art captures colourful scenes from Sri Lanka. The resort’s enduring appeal is its privacy and seclusion, not to mention the beachfront setting, 30-metre infinity pool and indulgent Ayurveda spa. When night falls, opt for a private beach BBQ followed by stargazing under a pitch-black sky. The perfect finale.

Booking information: Doubles from £155 per night, including breakfast; karpahasands.com

This ingenious boutique property was opened in January 2020 by sustainability-first Sri Lankan hoteliers Jetwing. The result is an eco-focused luxury escape that puts hill-country capital Kandy on your doorstep. It has 26 modern rooms yet is spread across a lush expanse of almost four acres, all overlooking the tranquil river Mahaweli. Just as exciting is what they do with this land. A roof-mounted solar photovoltaic system provides more than half of the hotel’s daily electricity, while an on-site effluent treatment plant recycles 100% of wastewater generated by the hotel to irrigate the gardens. Food waste is turned into bio-gas for cooking and plant clippings are processed into a nutrient-rich soil enhancer for use on the organic garden. Weaving together Kandyan hospitality with modern sustainability and community involvement, this is a beautiful and unique stay just a few minutes from historic Kandy.  

Booking information: Rooms from £220 per night, including breakfast; jetwinghotels.com

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Sri Lanka’s most innovative architect, Geoffrey Bawa, was the driving force behind Tropical Modernism, described by him as “an architectural style of wide open spaces connected to sprawling outdoors”. Galle’s Jetwing Lighthouse is a fine example of this. Observe the rich timber design of the hotel’s Cinnamon Room restaurant, where you’ll also find Sri Lankan fine dining with a focus on sustainable seafood. Don’t leave before paying a visit to the Cetacean Information Center, dedicated to raising awareness about whales and dolphins off Sri Lanka’s southern coast. And while the opalescent waters offshore are too rough for most swimmers, a walk on the beach is the best way to end your day – especially if you time it right for a magical sunset. 

Booking information: Rooms from £150 per night, including breakfast jetwinghotels.com

This refurbished plantation-era bungalow hotel, near Ella, surveys wooded hills, distant stupas and the Demodara Estate’s manicured tea gardens. There’s just five rooms, and its contemporary makeover feels delightfully indulgent. It is also enhanced by spoiling butlers, superb food (included in the rate) and cosy rooms. Spend your days beside the pool or picnicking at secret viewpoints, with long evenings beside a crackling log fire (nights can get chilly in the hills). Ella is an adventurer’s playground – we love its 500m zipline and variety of walks along self-guided sections of the new 300km Tea Country Trail, which aims to preserve the tea heritage of Sri Lanka. Guests can even arrive into nearby Demodara Station (known for its 360-degree sub-station loop) after journeying through the terrace-lined hills by train.

Booking information: Rooms from £486 per night on an all-inclusive basis; teardrop-hotels.com

Tucked into the foothills of the southern hill country, the intricate architecture, artisan craftsmanship, nourishing food and genuine hospitality of this forest retreat never ceases to amaze. The hotel sits in 80 acres of woodland, lawns, kitchen gardens and pepper plantations. There are just nine guest rooms, flicking between courtyard-endowed villa suites (with emperor-sized beds) and open-sided forest pavilions cantilevered over the verdant canopy. Hike up to the serene hilltop swimming pool where views reveal paddy fields and rubber plantations, or wander down through ancient woodland to the hotel’s private waterfall for wild swims and Champagne picnics. Nearby, the 10km descent from Pilkington Point’s lofty viewpoint ends with a swim in the upper pools of 220m-high Diyaluma Falls, one of Sri Lanka’s highest cascades.

Booking information: Rooms from £157 per night, including breakfast; koslanda.com

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Sri Lanka’s foremost architect, Geoffrey Bawa, was involved in the design of this five-bedroom beach sanctuary near Tangalle. It was his last private commission and bears many hallmarks of his iconic Tropical Modernism style, including wide colonnaded verandas, natural ventilation and open-air “rooms”. At its heart is a courtyard swimming pool flecked with the fragrant blossoms of frangipani trees. A double-storey building houses the upper floor suite Cinnamon Hill Room and the ground floor living and dining areas, while more rooms lead off from a long saffron-hued passageway. Food is a mix of western and Sri Lankan flavours, and hours-fresh seafood is often delivered to the villa by village fishermen. Beyond the villa’s turquoise gate lies Mawella’s 2km-long beach, an idyllic coastal stretch that feels largely (and joyfully) undiscovered.

Booking information: Rooms from £205 per night, including breakfast; manorhouseconcepts.com

Towering over Colombo’s lively cityscape is the Jetwing Colombo Seven, a stately address in the city’s namesake district. Surrounded by some of the best shopping and dining in town, it is an excellent base from which to explore the often-bypassed Sri Lankan capital. The National Museum, one of Asia’s finest institutions, is a short drive away, as is Colombo Fort where grandiose colonial mansions meet trendy bars and restaurants. The minimal yet spacious rooms feature subtle touches of Sri Lankan art, while those staying in can soak up views over the city when visiting the rooftop bar/restaurant. Indeed, the hotel’s star attraction is its roof where a photogenic infinity pool with a bird’s eye view of the city takes centre stage.

Booking information: Rooms from £68 per night; jetwinghotels.com

This blissfully isolated boutique lodge is buried deep within the jungle of easterly Gal Oya National Park. The lodge’s nine timber-framed bungalows (plus one two-bedroom villa) are well-spaced amid the 20 acres of wooded grounds. Guests are assigned a naturalist on arrival and spend their days cycling and hiking (the sunrise walk up Monkey Mountain rewards with 360-degree views), or exploring Gal Oya National Park by jeep and navigating Sri Lanka’s largest freshwater lake by boat in the hope of spying elephants swimming between rocky islands. Many of the experiences include picnics or afternoon tea set up in scenic locations. The lodge is also currently rewilding local farmland in an effort to protect threatened wildlife, including endangered fishing cats.

Booking information: Rooms from £191 per night, including breakfast; galoyalodge.com

This outstanding eco-lodge was the first to construct its own wetland system with lakes and reedbeds, forming a private nature reserve within its grounds. This allowed the architects to integrate guest accommodation seamlessly into the paddy fields, forests, marshlands and surrounding gardens. Their design has been inspired by local rural traditions, lending stays here a strong “back to nature” theme. The hotel is located within minutes of iconic Sigiriya Rock and within easy driving distance of the ruins at Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa; it’s an ideal base from which to experience Sri Lanka’s “Cultural Triangle”. When you return, the stunning Kandyan Kingdom-inspired fresco wall at Apsara Restaurant gives an atmospheric backdrop to chef Gunasiri’s legendary culinary creations. This is a truly memorable escape that embodies the ultimate in Sri Lankan eco-friendly luxury. 

Booking information: Rooms from £350 per night, including breakfast; jetwinghotels.com

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