Fancy a city break with a difference this spring? We’re talking about a trio of pearls sprinkled out across the balmy Istrian shores of the Mediterranean, awash with history, bountiful beaches, a relaxed vibe and lashings of world class food and drink. Welcome to the Slovenian coast, the Mediterranean’s secret playground, and the ideal spring getaways of Koper, Piran and Portorož.
In this lively port city’s historic core it feels like the Venetians only left yesterday. Their evocative legacy is a swathe of grand architecture in an ancient city once known as Capris and Iustinopolis. A languorous slice of Italian La Dolce Vita also still ripples through a city still known across the water as Capodistria.
What to see:
Head through the landmark Muda Gate and the centuries peel back. The warren of narrow old town lanes lead towards the grand main square, a riot of Venetian Gothic that is home to the Venetian-era loggia, the lavish Praetorian Palace and one of the largest cathedrals in Slovenia. The City Tower that soars above offers a sweeping view of Koper and the sparkling Adriatic Sea. Back on the square you can enjoy a bela kava (latte) in the café in the 15th century loggia as you soak in the palpable sense of history.
What to do:
If you fancy a dip quality beach options tempt in Ankaran, Strunjan or San Simon Bay in Izola. Boat trips exploring this spectacular sun drenched coast also tempt. Inland great hiking and cycling awaits in the rugged limestone hills of the Kras, or Karst, a word Slovenia gave the world to describe the dramatic mountainous and porous limestone scenery that rises right behind the coastal cities.
Superb gastronomy:
The predominant Slovenian Istrian red grape is refosco, which grows in the rich local soil and is said to boast a raft of health benefits. At the Hisa Refoska restaurant learn about the local viniculture and tour their cellar, home to what was once Europe’s largest wooden wine barrel, with a whopping volume of over 40,000 litres. It goes well with the excellent local fuzi pasta when laced with Istrian truffles.
This chocolate box pretty Venetian-era gem is one of the most picturesque historic settlements anywhere around the Adriatic. Piran’s expansive old core ripples across a sea kissed peninsula and nestles within sturdy old walls. It casts a storybook beauty that is instantly beguiling. Swathes of history, a rich cultural scene and views to Italy and Croatia are part of a cocktail as tempting as a glass of the crisp local white wine, malvasija.
What to see:
The main square of Tartinijev Trg pays homage to Piran’s most famous musical son, the composer Tartini, whose statue adorns it. Make sure to ask at the square’s tourist office about any current concerts or cultural events. For centuries salt was the coast’s main industry and you will still find it produced here today. Piran salt is farmed using age-old methods, with the Salt Making Festival every year in April marking the start of the season along the coast and celebrating the industry, with the epicentre of the festival in Piran.
What to do:
Handily you can just plunge straight from almost anywhere around the old town peninsula straight into the crystal clear waters. Hike up to the old town walls, which provide a bird’s eye view of Piran, as does the landmark Church of St George. Delve inside this Venetian Renaissance gem to learn how much the saint is still very much still revered in Piran today, with its lavish frescoes and statue of St George himself. Climb to the top of the vaulting belltower for epic views of this remarkable coastline. Look out for a flurry of small souvenir stalls and boutique shops on your way back down the hill.
Superb gastronomy:
Seafood is the star in Piran with the southern side of the peninsula awash with a sprinkling of restaurants offering up heaving platters of boat fresh squid, mussels and quality white fish, which comes healthily grilled with the fine local olive oil. Make sure to try too the skampi (the local langoustines) in a delicious tomato ‘buzara’ sauce. It is best washed down with that crisp, dry malvasija white wine, which has been cultivated along this coast since Roman times.