St Lazarus is easily explored on foot, beginning at the Portuguese-style church that lent the parish its name. On the original site was a hermitage, built in the 16th century to give shelter to lepers. But today, only the old chapel cross (in the forecourt) remains; the church itself was rebuilt in 1885, and now the area’s cobbles and surrounding artisan boutiques are a world away from when this was better known as the ‘leprosy quarter’.
Plague swept the district in the late 19thcentury, when all of its old wooden houses were razed. The area retained its reputation as a refuge for the needy, though, with the Albergue SCM that once served as a shelter for elderly women, and then latterly the poor. Today, its pretty lemon-coloured walls house galleries and local art, while a short wander to the grand Tap Seac square, lined with neoclassical buildings etched in a dark red, reveals a wealth of boutiques, from workshops where you can make your own candles to artisan leatherworkers.
End your visit atop Guia Hill, home to a fortress and a network of tunnels that doubled as air raid shelters during the Second World War. Sweat it up the hill (or take the cable car) to the 17th-century battlements, built following a failed invasion by the Dutch and overlooked by a European-style lighthouse that remains the oldest still standing in Asia. Don’t miss the fort’s pretty chapel, added later by Clarist nuns, which has some glorious European-meets-Chinese frescoes.