Villages are stuffed into river valleys or cling to vertiginous hillsides. George's Bakery, in the mountain village of Omodos, offers customers samples of breads, sweets and dried fruits. In nearby alleyways, beautiful lace and needlework is displayed in shop windows, while the monastery of Timios Stavros – found in the wide, cobbled square – is filled with ecclesiastical treasures (including, it's claimed, the bloodied crucifixion rope of Jesus, brought to Cyprus by St Helen).
In Marathasa Valley, the near-derelict village of Kalopanayiotis has been brought back to life by an entrepreneurial local. Now shops, museums, holiday homes, boutique hotels and restaurants line the streets. In this volcanic valley of hot springs and pools, the state-of-the-art Myrianthousa Spa Hotel has an array of tempting treatments.
East of Kalopanayiotis, Kakopetria – the highest village in the orchard-filled Solea valley – is a maze of alleyways, where the houses' protruding wooden balconies almost touch. Nearby Agios Nikolaos tis Stegis (a 'church of two roofs') is a UNESCO World Heritage site of story-filled frescoes that date back to the Middle Ages.
While the foothills and valleys of the Troodos Mountains are filled with fruit orchards, olive groves and vineyards, the higher reaches of the mountain range are covered in scented pines and cedars and rocky outcrops. Here the air is pure and cool – perfect for short rambles or more energetic climbs.
Much of the southwest coast of Cyprus is developed, but there are still quiet corners to be enjoyed. The Akamas Peninsula National Park, a protected area rich in flora, is surrounded by the sea on two sides. In springtime, tulips and orchids grow alongside wild herbs. You can take a bumpy 4WD trip across the peninsula's unpaved roads, combining the drive with lunch and a boat trip to the magical Blue Lagoon. Alternatively, follow the sign-posted trails through the park on foot, taking time to savour your surroundings.