The last Emir of Bukhara, Mohammad Alim Khan (1880 to 1944), built Sitorai Mokhi Khosa (Palace of Moon-like Stars) to be his summer palace. The emir was a Russofile who had studied in St Petersburg, and this is reflected in the palace’s architectural style, as well as its interiors and furniture.
He showed off his wealth and his cosmopolitan tastes with Venetian mirrors, rare porcelains from China, and a glittering chandelier. He was blissfully unaware that just two years after the palace’s completion, the Bolsheviks would seize control and the Emir himself would have to flee into exile.
Today, Sitorai Mokhi Khosa has been well restored. Some of the buildings have their original furniture; others house exhibitions of costumes and embroidery.
Uzbekistan’s craftsmen produce all manner of fabulous handicrafts and textiles, and the best selection is for sale in Bukhara. From hand painted plates for £1 a piece, to eye-wateringly expensive handmade silk carpets that take months to knot, make sure that there is plenty of spare room in your suitcase for souvenirs.
Bukhara’s historic trading domes still fulfil their original function: inside each one you will find dozens of stalls. The haggling prowess is the Silk Road merchants of old is still alive and well. There are also plenty of workshops, including just off Lyabi Hauz, where you can watch the artisans at work. The movement of the ikat dye looms is particularly entrancing.
Prepare to be dazzled by the architectural splendour of Bukhara. Countless monuments have earned the Old Town its UNESCO World Heritage status, and whether your interest is in the vast and imposing Ark citadel, or the more elegant Bolo Haouz Mosque with its painted facade and carved wooden pillars, there’s no doubt you’re going to be wowed.
The architectural highlight of Bukhara, though, is the Poi Kalyan, the city’s central square. The Kalyan Minaret is the only structure in Bukhara to have survived destruction by Genghis Khan. It is flanked by the Mir-i Arab Madrasa (one of the few religious universities still functioning in Uzbekistan) and the Kalyan Mosque, which was built to rival the Bibi-Khanym Mosque in Samarkand.