After an hour, we pulled off the motorway beside a sign marked ‘camel underpass’ – a tunnel under the road for free-roaming dromedaries – and crunched onto a dirt track. At first glance, the landscape looked flat and featureless, peppered with rusting oil drums, but distant rock escarpments peeped through the heat haze. As we sped towards them, their strange top-heavy forms became clear: like larger-than-life waves, their concave flanks crested over an ocean of fine golden sand. And then, weirder yet, four huge steel monoliths rose up between them, a 1km-long queue of black rectangular voids: clearly man-made, yet just as raw and unnerving as their surroundings.
The creation of artist Richard Serra, ‘East-West/West-East’ is art liberated from the gallery, a sculpture devoid of exhibition notes, gift shop or WiFi. Out in the desert, away from the roar of the city, it invites big thoughts: musings on isolation, resilience and humankind’s relationship with nature. “I’ve been here countless times, but it still takes my breath away,” said Samruiddin, as we walked between the 14-metre-tall steel plates, our t-shirts billowing in the hot dry wind.
I could only nod in agreement, marvelling at the sheer scale and ambition of this artwork writ large – an irresistible metaphor for its home nation. I’d come to look for the past, to seek out my old haunts: but though Qatar is proud of its roots, going ‘back’ is an impossibility here. Just like its star-studded architecture, its mighty museums, and its barrel-chested bodybuilder in his emporium of pearls, Qatar always has a surprise up its sleeve – even when you think you’ve seen it all.