Other traditions have luckily fallen away. I discovered two angular rocks outside the house where the severed heads of the village’s enemies were displayed. “The head’s flesh was cut away, mixed with pig and dog meat and fed to the children to make them strong,” Aaron revealed. As another sing-sing struck up, he took me upstairs into the second spirit house to view a knotted rope hanging from the rafters. “Each knot demonstrates a head taken by the house.” There were dozens of knots.
After four days travelling against the current, I felt at ease with the Sepik’s soporific flow. Before turning around, we stopped at one final village, Korogu, and were showered with petal confetti like marrying couples. I was touched by the generosity of this poor community.
The village’s lofty stilted houses snuggled among coconut palms. Pigs roamed free beneath them and the drying hides explained where all the crocodiles had gone. In a haus tambaran, given over to the pig clan and marked inside by a woven wicker hog, two men blew a captivating harmony on sacred flutes, controlling the pitch with intakes of breath like a didgeridoo rather than using finger holes. “They play this when the men are being cut, to soothe them,” said cultural leader, Hendricks Sambin.
Korogu’s main crocodile clan house had collapsed. Hendricks pointed to the prone pillars waiting to be re-erected. “We will build a new one but it is expensive and we need government funding. When we do, four pigs will be sacrificed and hung on each post,” he said.
Hendricks told me some 40 boys were due to be scarified in a big ceremony later this year. “Our young men still want to feel the power of the crocodile,” he said. “It gives them energy for life.” In the remote world of the Sepik, you can understand why. As we turned downriver and made for its mouth, I watched this country within a country drift by, realising how precious life in the jaws of a crocodile truly was.
A Sepik shopper’s guide
The handicrafts along the Sepik are exceptional and very well priced. The money you spend is also appreciated by the families offering the crafts. Look for…
1: Bilum bags
These string bags, woven from sago palm thread, are found in every village and tend to range in design and size from smaller handbag proportions to some that are large enough to hold vegetables and even babies.
2: Ceremonial flutes
I found beautiful carved flutes in Kamindimbit that were made from bamboo and had animal totem heads.
3: Masks
These are found in all villages along the Sepik. Some are more oval, some are more rounded in design, and it’s common to see a crocodile motif incorporated.
4: Duk-duk statues
I found these wood-carved statues (with pepperpot-shaped bodies and pinched heads) in several Iatmol villages. They are representations of the full-body spirit masks that appear in ceremonies.
5: Pottery
The village of Aibom in Chambri Lakes is famous for wood-fired pottery adorned by animal motifs. Aibom pots are only made by women and are traded all over the Sepik.
The Trip
The author travelled with Discover the World (01737 218802). 2019 dates for his itinerary are yet to be confirmed, but the 12-night Frontier Lands of Papua New Guinea cruise is available, including an exploration of the Sepik River and coastal highlights such as the fjords at Tufi and remote Trobriand Islands. Price includes one-way charter flight from Cairns to Madang, all meals, guided tours and access to marine and national parks; departures are on 5 Nov 2018 and 12 Nov 2019.
Accommodation
The author stayed at the Pullman Reef Casino Hotel either side of his stay in PNG. The rooms are very modern and the entertainment goes well beyond a small casino and five Asian-themed restaurants; there’s even a glass skydome that hosts a menagerie of local wildlife that can be accessed by a zip-line course.
The scenic Madang Resort is fabulously located on Madang harbour and has rooms of all grades and a good restaurant. Try to get something located on the waterfront, so you can watch the flow of harbour traffic.
If you find yourself in and around the capital in between flights, the Airways Hotel offers a really beautiful hillside location that has the most contemporary design in PNG, including a full-sized Dakota plane as part of its rather unique décor.