I think deep down I knew that I was going to do it one way or the other. This had been a journey that I’d had in the back of my mind for some time. Ever since 2003 when I first travelled to the Middle East with my friend Alex, I knew that I wanted to return and to see how everything had changed. Having some previous expeditions like Walking the Nile, I pushed myself and tested myself to the limits in different ways.
I wanted to return to Arabia. I put this expedition off since 2014. After I got back from the Nile I thought, oh maybe I'll do the Arabia one next. It got pushed back and pushed back, until finally last year when I thought 'now is the time to do it' and I didn’t give myself too much wiggle room really.
I knew that I wanted to do it, but everybody that I suggested it to said it was ridiculous and there was no chance, given the situation in Syria. But luckily my mates Simon and Dave were two of my more adventurous friends. Initially they were a bit reluctant, but they both came around and said "we want to come."
I knew that from the beginning it was going to be difficult. I knew that getting visas was going to be very difficult. The fact there was the civil war in Iraq, Yemen and Syria meant that just trying to achieve those alone would be really tough. Not to mention getting visas for Saudi Arabia.
But despite all of that I thought well, if anyone could do it then me and my mates who have managed a lot through other places could. We pulled as many strings as we could, we got in touch with as many people in our network in the Middle East as possible and we thought we would give it a good bash.
Yes. We set off and still didn’t have the Yemen visa, the Saudi visa or the Syrian visa, so there were several countries that we didn’t know if we would be able to get into. But from past experience it certainly seems that when you get out on the ground and speak to people that you figure things out. You have to have a certain amount of faith that it’s going to work out.
I’ve seen war before, but I was shocked to the core by what I witnessed. We saw cities in absolute devastation, you can’t really un-see that. But on a positive note, there was a lot of diversity. Just to go there and see these hidden gems like the mountains of Oman and the snow-capped peaks in Lebanon, was rather extraordinary.
I think one of the big attractions of travelling in the Middle East is the hospitality and the people. found that in 2003 when I was there. You go to places you wouldn’t have expected like Iraq and inside the West Bank. In places where there is conflict, people would often be the most welcoming.
But to travel this time around, to go to Yemen and to go to Syria in the middle of the civil war, it was really quite humbling. And the people haven’t really changed in that perspective, they’re all very friendly. Sadly, the war has carried on and the politics around that hasn’t got any less complicated. There are so many different groups with so many different agendas, it does seem at times on one hand hopeless, yet the people do seem to somehow manage to keep some sort of hope.