From the peak of Cerro el Pital, El Salvador’s highest point, I could see most of the country. A curtain of cloud had lifted over tangled forests, olive green hills, lakes of deep blue and villages shimmying in heat haze. Rising out of this landscape were countless volcanoes – some just pimples, others huge. Westwards, the perfectly sculpted cinder cone of Volcán Chingo was still scarfed with morning mist.
While we surveyed the dizzying scene from our 2,730m vantage point, my guide, Marbel Membreño, and I exchanged knowing glances. “A. Shithole. Country,” we drawled practically in unison. This precise term had been Donald Trump’s reported assessment of El Salvador a few days before my arrival. Mimicking the President had become a national joke that I quickly cottoned on to. However, I can also testify that beyond the ironic humour, Trump’s remark unified Salvadorans – a fun-loving and open-hearted people – in a blend of scorn and affront.
A truer summary of this tiny Central American country is that it is blessed with geographic marvels but has been tormented in recent decades by natural disasters (earthquakes, eruptions) and the horror of the civil war. The latter ended over 25 years ago, yet as a tourist stop it remains something of a Cinderella nation, constantly playing catch-up with its neighbours.
But might El Salvador be the perfect way to scratch a Central American itch? Out among its smoking volcano craters, Maya ruins, empty sands and coffee plantations dripping down steep mountainsides, it offers a rawer vision than that found on the well-trod trails of, say, Costa Rica. In an area little more than the size of Wales, it seemed to be a distillation of all the wild allure that this region wields. And so off I set, to see whether this tiny nation could live up to its big promise.