Around the Alzette there’s an abundance of heritage buildings, parks, fortifications and riverside paths. Lose yourself in the romance of it all, caught in the loop of the river, then pause for a leisurely coffee or lunch at Place d’Armes before following the Chemin de la Corniche, a walking trail along the ramparts with far-reaching views over the ravine. Drop down to the bottom of the gorge at Stierchen Bridge and amble along the riverside path to Klouschtergaart and Luxembourg City’s very own ‘Little Mermaid’, Melusina, a bright-purple ceramic statue contrasting the lush tree-lined river. Continue to the Grund district, where the city’s medieval labourers and craftsmen once lived, and which is now home to a slew of chic eateries and bars. Save your lungs on the way back up by taking the lift to the upper level of the old town.
Kirchberg has a very different vibe to the historic centre. When you cross the Grand Duchess Charlotte Bridge over the Pfaffenthal Valley onto a separate plateau, views of Kirchberg’s skyscrapers open up before you. It may be just a twenty-minute bus or tram ride, but it feels like you’ve been catapulted into the future. Kirchberg is not only the capital’s business and EU hub, but the art-filled spaces of Parc Central are filled with avant-garde sculptures and installations. Seek out ‘The Knotted Gun’ (replicas of which now scatter the world), the bright yellow staircases of ‘Dendrite’, which lead nowhere, and the abstract ‘L’Africaine’. Book a walking tour to hear the stories behind the art.
Luxembourg City by night is unmissable. Treat yourself to an evening at Luxembourg Philharmonie, an iconic building of glass supported by over 800 white steel columns. It’s the home to the Luxembourg Philharmonic Orchestra and also showcases the best of the Duchy’s up-and-coming talent. If you prefer more informal settings, there are plenty of bars and restaurants offering live entertainment along with food and drink. Head for Rocas café-théâtre, or Bei der Gare for great jazz evenings. Best of all, visit in December when the city’s is ablaze with Christmas lights and its cobbles take on a magical quality all of their own.