Innsbruck's Old Town Square is where Christmas tree lights twinkle against the gilded copper shingles of the 16th-century Goldenes Dachl (Golden Roof). Here, the scent of fried kiachl (sweet and savoury doughnuts) wafts over stalls filled with old crafts and spiced biscuits. No wonder it's extremely popular, and busy.
A more contemplative option lies high up in Hungerburg, where a funicular takes you to a Christmas market and the best view in town, and where an annual ‘Krampus run’ sees the festive devils of Alpine folklore let loose on the mountain slopes.
Market dates: 15 November to 23 December 2023 in the Old Town, and in Hungerburg from 25 November 2023 to 6 January 2024
More information: Innsbruck's Christmas Calendar
As you might expect from stately Vienna, its Christmas markets tend to err on the grandiose side.
From the boutique jewellery and ceramics stalls that cluster in the Baroque shadow of Belvedere Palace, to the imperial pomp of the Schönbrunn Palace, which captures the senses with its jazz concerts, gallons of spiced weihnachtspunsch (a local take on glühwein) and some 80 stalls huddled under the auspices of the Habsburg’s former summer retreat - the city of Mozart hits all the right notes.
Market dates: 17 November to 23 December 2023 at Belvedere Palace and 18 November 2023 to 4 January 2024 at Schönbrunn Palace.
More information: Vienna's Christmas Markets
With its snow-topped Alpine setting and hilltop fortress, Salzburg’s Christkindl market is a fairy tale incarnate.
The choirs make their stand in the glow of the cathedral, where stalls of crafts, traditional toys and sweets scatter the cinnamon-scented square. It was here that the city’s first Christmas market was held, back in the late 1400s, but it isn’t the only game in town these days.
Head to the far-flung district of Hellbrunn (30 minutes by bus from the centre) for a more Alpine take on the season’s market festivities, with reindeer-pulled sleds and an advent calendar projected onto its 17th-century palace.
Market dates: 23 November 2023 to 1 January 2024 at Salzburg’s Christkindl, and at Hellbrunn from 23 November to 24 December 2023
More information: Visit Salzburg
Tradition is top of the menu in Graz. Grab a warming glass of local feuerzangenbowle (wine and rum set alight) and make for its Franciscan Quarter.
Beneath the oldest monastery in Austria lies one of its longest-running Christmas markets, where tin toys and local crafts compete with the big wheel and carousel of the Advent Fair.
Don’t miss the nearby ‘Ice Crib’ (an annual ice sculpture) in the courtyard of the Renaissance-era Landhaus, then finish at the arts and crafts market of Färberplatz, run by a collective of local craftspeople, for the best gift selection in the city.
Market dates: 18 November to 23 December 2023 in Graz’s Old Town, and 1 December to 23 December 2023 on Färberplatz.
More information: Graz's Christmas Markets
The city of Linz might be more metropolitan than fairytale, but the scent of gingerbread houses is never far away at Christmas.
Most festive action takes place on the main square, but Volksgarten market makes a cute escape from the crowds, with its ice-sculpture exhibition and scattering of live workshops showing how its traditional gifts are made. Woodturning, carving and pottery are all demonstrated here, with some even offering the chance to join in yourself before browsing wares across some 60 stands.
Having only started in the 1950s, this market is a relative newcomer, but well worth a visit.
Market dates: 18 November to 23 December 2023 at Volksgarten
More information: Linz's Christmas Market