Every Mexico City colonia has its own distinct character, from the sedate, leafy Art Deco vibes of La Condesa to La Guerrero’s gritty cheer. But if you really want to get to know the neighbourhood, you need to find yourself a good cantina.
Sometimes polished, sometimes homely, but always friendly - the modern incarnation of the cantina is a far cry from their post-Revolution version, where you’d find a scatter of chairs, a scuzzy bar, and no women, children, or people in uniform.
Over time, they've become cleaner, more family-friendly places. The service can be so polite it’s almost baroque, and the free botana (snacks) on offer get steadily more elaborate with every round of drinks ordered.
Here are five of the best starting-points for getting under the skin of some iconic Mexico City neighbourhoods...