Bermuda travel guide
Marooned in the north Atlantic, Britain's oldest colony is home to great diving, pink beaches and courteous locals with a penchant for a party
‘Nothing but gusts, storms and foul weather’, complained Silvester Jourdain in his 1613 tome A Plaine Description Of The Barmudas.
He wasn’t completely wrong about the climate – Bermuda is closer to Nova Scotia than it is to the Caribbean – but then he wouldn’t have wandered down Front Street in Hamilton on a warm summer’s night, watching dancers and listening to reggae and jazz, or lazed on one of Bermuda’s famous pink beaches.
Comprising seven interlinked islands (and a sprinkling of islets), Bermuda is 1000km east of the US coast. Since first colonized in 1612, its allegiance has been firmly to the UK, though to some extent it spans the cultural gulf between Britain and the United States. Many Americans think it's quaintly English; Brits often find it rather American.
It’s also grown since Silvester Jourdain’s rather dismal visit. Then it was a remote outpost, fringed by treacherous reefs and visited by Spanish or Portuguese seafarers only if their voyage had run into problems.
Under British rule Bermuda became strategically important. The town of St George is the oldest continuously inhabited settlement in the Americas. It prospered through the War of Independence and supplied famously fast Bermuda Sloops, crafted from the islands’ indigenous cedar, for Britain’s great naval wars with Spain.
The small islands became heavily populated. Instead of fading into remote obscurity, Bermuda boomed. Now, with cruise ships pulling in through the summer and its (very British) heritage assured, it’s still an island group very much on the move.
Wanderlust recommends
- Catch a Festival. Any excuse for a good old-fashioned knees-up is welcomed with open arms and flowing rum, so be sure to see at least one big event while you’re visiting. Those of note include Cup Match (late July/August), Bermuda Music Festival (October), Bermuda Culinary Arts Festival (November), Bermuda Day (24 May) and International Race Weekend (January). Quirkier events include the traditional Good Friday kite-flying on Horseshoe Beach, and the Non-Mariners Race at Mangrove Bay in Somerset in early August: the idea is to sink as quickly as possible in the most spectacularly unseaworthy contraption imaginable.
- Learn Bermudian. The islands’ slang is a colourful vernacular not too dissimilar from that of the Caribbean islands, and the locals will love it if you try to catch their rhythm
- See Art. The Bermuda Art Gallery is the place to see paintings inspired by Bermuda’s lush greenery, sweeping beaches and pastel houses. The likes of Georgia O’Keeffe and Andrew Wyeth are known for taking inspiration from the island, and some of their works are proudly on display
- Go Riding. Rise early to canter across the South Shore beaches on horseback before the sunbathers arrive
- Say Hello to Johnny. If you're in Hamilton during the week, head down to the Crow Lane roundabout between 5am and 10am. There you’ll find Johnny Barnes, Bermuda’s ‘goodwill ambassador’, who has been cheering up commuters every morning for over 20 years, blowing kisses and shouting encouragement to every passer-by
- Dive or snorkel. Bermuda's proud naval history pervades the island culture, but get a closer look by diving one of the many wrecks that foundered on the offshore reefs. Snorkellers should head for Tobacco Bay at the East End, or Devonshire Bay. Alternatively, you can get a feel for what lies beneath at the Aquarium or Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute
Wanderlust tips
Respect local customs and concerns: Bermuda is a largely conservative Christian country, and courtesy is highly valued. Standards of dress can be quite formal: hotels and restaurants may require men to wear a jacket/tie; most require at least a shirt with collar (ie no T-shirts) for dinner. Keep beach wear for the beach.
Water is scarce here, so be careful how you use it. The island is dependent on rainfall for its water supply – it is popularly called ‘liquid sunshine’.
Drinking in public places is not allowed, though you can bend the rules if your beer-can/rum bottle is in a brown paper bag and enjoyed unobtrusively.