Tonga travel guide
Time begins in Tonga but that doesn’t mean life is fast-paced. Settle down to a cup of kava in this tiny haven of Pacific islands
The Kingdom of Tonga is made up of 171 islands, sprawling across 700,000sq km of the South Pacific Ocean, stitched by the volcanoes of the ‘Pacific Rim of Fire’ into a line, north to south, 800km long.
The fact that the date-line lies near to Tonga explains why it is the first country in the world to greet every day, but this isn’t the first occasion on which Tonga’s importance has belied its size. In the 12th century it is thought kings of Tonga ran an empire that reached across much of the Pacific, but by the time Europeans discovered the islands in 1616 this had long gone. The islanders are no pushover though: uniquely in the Pacific they have never lost indigenous government.
Captain Cook landed first in 1773, happening to visit during the annual ‘First Fruits’ festival. He was invited to join in the festivities and dubbed the islands ‘The Friendly Islands’ – though recent research indicates the islanders’ welcome was not quite as it seemed. It may be that the locals were planning to murder him but never found the right moment. Little deterred - and certainly not dead - he came back for two later visits. Methodist missionaries arrived in 1797 and were very influential.
In many ways Tongan society seems little affected by the modern age. There’s money in the capital but not much elsewhere. Many of the islands have no electricity and operate outside any monetary system: days are spent harvesting root vegetables and fishing from outrigger canoes, while in the evenings women weave mats and make tapa cloth, while the men drink kava and talk about the fish that got away.
Then you realise that the Tongans are surprisingly well-travelled. At any given time half the population is working abroad. Their remittances fund the islands’ modest economy and a sophisticated knowledge of the western world has certainly crept back into the culture along with the Australian, New Zealand and American dollars that keep the islands afloat.
Tongatapu is the main island of the group, where you’ll find the capital Nuku’alofa, the royal family, the government and most of the population. This is also where you’ll find the country’s most important archaeological sites: stone henges, terraced tombs and ancient moats. It’s also got good surf, spectacular blow holes and great diving around its offshore islets.
‘Eua is nearby but feels like a different world. Protected as a national park it has some of the best hiking: caves, chasms and waterfalls abound.
Vava’u is one of the Pacific’s great sailing centres, with beautiful scenery and some spectacular dive sites. At any time of year some of the islands in the group will provide good surf and though whales can be seen all over Tonga, this is the place where sightings are most frequent and best.
The pace of life slows sharply on the Ha’apai Island group. This is where Captain Cook made land, and where the Mutiny on the Bounty took place: it’s easy to understand why the mutineers chose this place to escape a hard life at sea, as these islands are enchantingly slow.
The Niuas are the most northern and remote island group in Tonga – they’re closer to Samoa and Fiji than they are to Tonga’s capital, Tongatapu – and this is where you’ll find islands at their most isolated and authentic. It’s not so long ago that the Niuas relied on a mail delivery system that put letters into biscuit tins which they threw to village swimmers: things have hardly changed.
Tourism is in its infancy in Tonga. As the capital Tongatapu has the best facilities, while the islands of the Vava’u group have, thanks to their surf, beaches, whale watching and fishing, became yachtie heaven. The other islands of the archipelago still have few sophistications and you’ll find little in the way of facilities. Good. Long may it stay that way.
Wanderlust recommends
- Catch a Match. Rugby is more than a sport in Tonga: it’s practically a religion. The islands punch way above their weight on the international Rugby circuit: it’s worth asking if there are any club – or even school – games being played while you’re there. The ultimate match would involve ’Ikale Tahi, the national rugby union team
- Go to Church. From midnight on Saturday until Midnight on Sunday, Tonga does religion. You’ll hear church bells and wooden drums as well as harmonized singing coming from packed wooden churches. You might as well join in – all other entertainment stops
- Make an Umu. Dig a hole in the ground, make a fire in it. Add rocks. When they are hot, remove ashes, add meat and vegetables, cover with banana leaves, leave for hours
- Climb Cliffs. The 150m limestone cliffs on ’Eua’s east coast make for excellent uncharted climbing
- Summit a Volcano. Kao is Tonga’s highest peak, at 1,046m, with stunning views of the islands and ocean. Bushwalking the volcanic landscapes, with ash fields and tropical forests, is always a delight
- Catch some Kava. Infused from the sun-dried root and stem of the kava plant, the mildly intoxicating kava is an essential part of Tongan culture. Drinking ceremonies are intricate social affairs, usually dominated by men, but women are invited to join in on special occasions
- Dive Deep. Tonga’s coral reefs, drop-offs, wrecks, geological formations and caverns are world-class. The Pacific waters teem with life. Dolphins and turtles are often seen, and from June to November humpback whales visit
- Find a Feast. The locals love feasting and often invite travellers. This is your best chance to see authentic traditional music and dancing – be ready to keep going into the small hours
Wanderlust tips
Take gifts. The locals are welcoming, especially in rural areas, but it's always good to be able to show your appreciation. Apart from the main islands they don't see much imported technology: your junk might be their revelation.