Samoa travel guide
Remote Samoa is worth the effort of reaching: laze on Pacific beaches, climb volcanoes and discover one of the world's quirkiest cultures
A volcanic dot in the South Pacific, not far from the equator, Samoa is about as remote as countries come. In many ways the islands that make up Samoa – the two main atolls of ’Upolu and Savai’i plus a scattering of others – are your typical tropical paradise: white sand, swaying palms, turquoise waters, reefs full of fish.
But Samoa is much more than just a pretty postcard. Delve inland and Samoa reveals a gnarled and verdant interior of craters, lava fields and tropical forest, while the strong indigenous culture – called fa’a Samoa – is alive and well: the locals still live in traditional fales (thatched, open-sided houses), farm their own land and abide by a village hierarchy system that dates back centuries.
Wanderlust recommends
- Browse the fruit and flowers of Apia’s Maketi Fou market
- Visit Robert Louis Stevenson’s Villa Vailima, and hike up the hill to his grave for great views
- Lounge on ’Upolu’s south coast beaches, especially lovely Lalomanu
- Hike up Tafua Savai’i volcano to peer into a Lost World crater and spot rare Samoan flying foxes
- Clamber through the undergrowth to reach Pulemelei Mound, Savai’i, Polynesia’s biggest (but little-visited) stone monument
- Look out for fa’afafine, Samoa’s affectionately mocked, super-camp transvestites
- Take the boat to little Manono Island – no cars, no dogs, just laid-back life Samoan style
Wanderlust tips
On arrival buy a lava-lava, the local sarong. Practically all Samoans wear them, accessorised with jandals (flip-flops). Local women in Samoa dress fairly conservatively – away from the beach you should wear below-the-knee shorts/dresses.
Attend a church service and, if possible, a family to’ona’i (Sunday lunch) for a slice of real Samoan culture. Always remove your shoes before entering a fale (traditional Samoan house).