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Samoa travel guide

Remote Samoa is worth the effort of reaching: laze on Pacific beaches, climb volcanoes and discover one of the world's quirkiest cultures

A volcanic dot in the South Pacific, not far from the equator, Samoa is about as remote as countries come. In many ways the islands that make up Samoa – the two main atolls of ’Upolu and Savai’i plus a scattering of others – are your typical tropical paradise: white sand, swaying palms, turquoise waters, reefs full of fish.

But Samoa is much more than just a pretty postcard. Delve inland and Samoa reveals a gnarled and verdant interior of craters, lava fields and tropical forest, while the strong indigenous culture – called fa’a Samoa – is alive and well: the locals still live in traditional fales (thatched, open-sided houses), farm their own land and abide by a village hierarchy system that dates back centuries.

Wanderlust recommends

1. Browse the fruit and flowers of Apia’s Maketi Fou market
2. Visit Robert Louis Stevenson’s Villa Vailima, and hike up the hill to his grave for great views
3. Lounge on ’Upolu’s south coast beaches, especially lovely Lalomanu
4. Hike up Tafua Savai’i volcano to peer into a Lost World crater and spot rare Samoan flying foxes
5. Clamber through the undergrowth to reach Pulemelei Mound, Savai’i, Polynesia’s biggest (but little-visited) stone monument
6. Look out for fa’afafine, Samoa’s affectionately mocked, super-camp transvestites
7. Take the boat to little Manono Island – no cars, no dogs, just laid-back life Samoan style

Wanderlust tips

On arrival buy a lava-lava, the local sarong. Practically all Samoans wear them, accessorised with jandals (flip-flops). Local women in Samoa dress fairly conservatively – away from the beach you should wear below-the-knee shorts/dresses.

Attend a church service and, if possible, a family to’ona’i (Sunday lunch) for a slice of real Samoan culture. Always remove your shoes before entering a fale (traditional Samoan house).

Samoa trips