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June 2013 issue • On sale from 23 May

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June 2013

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Uzbekistan
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Uzbekistan travel guide

Uzbekistan's ornate mosques and medressas hint at its legacy as the historic trading hub of Central Asia – key caravanserai on the ancient Silk Road

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Land-locked and Stan-locked, Uzbekistan was once one of the most vital hubs on the world’s most important trade route – the Silk Road.

There are few more evocative place names than Samarkand, a city of caravanserais, dazzling mosques and monuments – not least the legendary Registan – but it’s far from alone in Uzbekistan. Bukhara and Khiva also gleam with the architectural bounty of the country’s medieval wealth: palaces, minarets, mausoleums and medressas (Islamic schools), all intricately decorated with blue-toned tiles, grace the squares.

There are plenty of other historical relics of past glories, too – roam the ancient Khorezm region around Urgench to explore the remains of two-milliennia-old qalas (fortresses). But don’t miss the wood for the trees: the Uzbeks themselves, friendly and hospitable.

Wanderlust recommends

  1. Explore the medressas and monuments of Samarkand’s mighty Registan
  2. Marvel at the beautifully decorated monuments of the well-preserved trading city of Khiva
  3. Barter for carpets in the bazaars of Bhukara – dark red is the signature colour
  4. Admire avant-garde art in the Savitsky Karakalpakstan Museum, Nukus
  5. Head north-west to mourn the rapidly evaporating Aral Sea
  6. Roam among the ruined fortresses in the countryside around Urgench

Wanderlust tips

Read up on your rugs before heading to Bukhara, where a pure wool carpet might cost £200 and up – cheaper carpets on cotton bases should be about half that price, while silk options could be ten times as much. Another souvenir option is ikat: brightly coloured cloth. Allow plenty of time for visa applications before departing.

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