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May 2013 issue • On sale from 18 April

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May 2013

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Child shepherds In the Simien Mountains
Child shepherds In the Simien Mountains

Ethiopia travel guide

Mighty mountains, deep depressions, sunken churches, unique wildlife and damn fine coffee - Ethiopia has it all

Ethiopia is as colourful as it is diverse. While camels might stroll into town in Dire Dawa, Ethiopian wolves roam the countryside at Bale Mountains national park. Rock-hewn churches at Lalibela, underground tombs at Aksum and well-preserved castles in Gondar give testimony to Ethiopia’s heritage on the aptly named ‘historical circuit”.

The Danakil Depression is one of the most other-worldly sights in Ethiopia, with its lava lakes and colourful sulphurous pools, but high temperatures and a drop to -116m below sea level, make it one of the most strenuous places to visit. The wilderness of the Awash national park gives way to bustling market towns, while cars still haven’t replaced horse-drawn carts in the cities.

It is believed that coffee originated in Ethiopia, and to this day the preparation and consumption of coffee is an integral part of Ethiopian society.

Wanderlust recommends

  1. Visit Aksum with its palace ruins, underground tombs and stelae; the city houses Ethiopia’s holiest shrine
  2. Get trekking in the Simien Mountains national park, which offers routes for casual strolls and weeks-long hiking. The park has a large variety of wildlife, and is the access to Africa’s forth-highest peak Ras Dashen (4620m).
  3. Wander among the 11 churches of Lalibela, which were cut straight from the rock at an altitude of 2630m.
  4. Harar’s walled old town invites travellers to get lost in its maze of 362 alleyways. At night, the last remaining hyena men feed the animals just outside the city walls, and brave visitors can have a go too.
  5. Delve into the Danakil Depression, the lowest place in Africa (-116m) and among the most inhospitable places on earth.
  6. Take a bath in the hot spring pools at Wondo Genet or hike through the forest for a glimpse of the Rift Valley and spotting various bids as well as baboons and hyenas.
  7. Stroll around the city of Gondar, nicknamed 'Africa’s Camelot' with its slightly surreal cluster of African castles and Italian cafés

Wanderlust tips

Head towards the city of Bahar Dar and Lake Tana. It is Ethiopia’s largest lake and the source of the Blue Nile. There are 20 centuries-old monasteries on Lake Tana’s islands, and some such as Ura Kidane Meret, allow female visitors.

Just a few kilometres down the road, the river plunges down the impressive Tis Isat waterfall, which is a particularly captivating sight during the wet season. Both the lake, and the walk around the waterfall make for good bird-watching excursions.

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