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June 2013

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Scottish Borders and Northumberland

How long were you there for?
4 days

What was the single highlight of your trip?
Cragside. Beautiful NT home and grounds.

Any lowlights/cautionary tales?
Four days is simply not enough for Northumberland. The area is packed with gorgeous beaches, castles, islands, hills and historic towns and villages. You need at least a week, if not more.

Any absolutely MUST see sights/activities?
If it is your first trip to Northumberland, you really have to visit the Holy Island/Lindisfarne and the Farne Islands. The amount of puffins, kittiwakes, shags and guillemots (plus seals) is incredible. Going at this time of year and seeing the baby chicks is a bonus.

Any absolutely DON'T see sights/activities?
I hate to say this but the coast on the Scottish side looks a little bit down-at-heel in comparision to the English side. Too many power stations and ugly council houses/flats. Sorry Scotland!

If you could give one piece of advice, what would it be?
If you are going to the Farne Islands, dress warmly (even in June) and take a hard hat - those arctic terns are vicious little b*****s just before their eggs hatch.

Any other comments?
Northumberland is just as beautiful as I remembered it from 15 years ago. I can't believe it isn't overrun with people like Cornwall or Devon - but I'm not complaining!

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10 comments
  • 10th June by Alan Taylor

    A delightful area - I quite agree that four days is way too short.


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  • 10th June by DrG

    Dabbler, Treacleminer, Rhoda, and now you Helen.... Northumberland is not as quiet as it once was! 

    You're another to note Cragside. I must look that one up.

    Terns are only doing what comes naturally, and they'll do it for much longer than during incubation..... even my local robin will get a good lock of hair in his beak at the mo', and he will practically feed out of my hand at other times of the year. Can we look forward to some pics?

    Cheers, DrG


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  • 11th June by bilbo_baggins

    We must go back here again as we loved our visit in 2010 and have yet to go to Alnwick castle and gardens. It is such a beautiful region, though I didn't get to the Farne Islands (a bit late for the puffins); the rest of the county is incredible and as you say much less crowded than Cornwall. As far as I know you can rent a cottage at Cragside which would be a great place to be based - we didn't visit, but passed by on the way back from the coast to our cottage at Slaggyford and it did look very nice.

    Did you get to walk along Hadrian's Wall Helen?


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  • 11th June by Liz Cleere

    I'm sold on Northumberland, Helen, but the poor old Scottish Borders didn't fare so well, I see? I'd never thought about this part of the world before (except when I find myself humming Lindisfarne's "Meet me on the corner") but it's on my map now.


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  • 11th June by hmoat 01

    HI liz

    It could be I'm being a bit unfair to Scotland. The weather on the day we explored the coast northwards was a bit dreich - as the Scots would say, and the weather on the England side was much better. Everywhere looks better in the sun!



    @BB - Husband was recovering from flu so Hadrian's wall walk has been put on hold! 


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  • 12th June by steve48

    Helen, like you I love the Northumberland coast. Its long sandy beaches are probably the third best in the country - after South Wales and North Norfolk. But I do feel obliged to stick up for the coast just over the border in Scotland.

    Did you visit Eyemouth? - picturesque old smuggling town and harbour. And then a bit further north Coldingham Bay is fantastic - a long, clean, sandy bay great for surfing and backed by wooded hills. The waters around those parts form the St Abbs and Eyemouth Voluntary Marine Reserve - the first in the country - very clear and full of marine life. I'm sure DrG would be interested.

    And then just around St Abbs Head is the interesting village and natural harbour of Cove.

    I agree, it's a shame about the Torness nuclear power station further along the coast. But beyond that, past Dunbar, the coast again is brilliant with Tantallon Castle perched dramatically on cliffs opposite Bass Rock, and then the lovely town and beach at North Berwick.

    You'll have to go back!



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  • 12th June by hmoat 01

    Yes, you are right to correct me, Steve. St Abb's was lovely (Good for diving from what I could see). Dunbar was okay but it was very cold and grey when we were there (and a bit tired looking in places). Eyemouth is an interesting little place. Cove looked interesting but couldn't really get down to see it as my 80 year old father-in-law has limited mobility. Didn't make it to Coldingham Bay either. We didn't have time for North Berwick this time (apart from Morrison's and the railway station).

    Maybe I need to go back to this area in the sunshine!


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  • 13th June by steve48

    I know what you mean, Helen, about Dunbar. It was many years ago when we went there but it wasn't very inviting or interesting.  Which is surprising considering its historical associations.


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  • 22nd June by Fintown Trekker

    Sounds fab Helen - even better than Donegal?? Well, 'pose we don't have puffins....cheers!


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  • 23rd June by ttbko

    My personal favourite was "Fog on the Tyne" myself... I was less impressed with Lindesfarne (the place not band) than I expected to be.  Possibly influenced by a complete absence of anything living except people!  However, Cragside is a hoot!  A wonder of modern engineering set in the most magnificent gardens.



    However, lets not forget the sitting room that taste forgot with that truly hideous alabaster fireplace!!!!!!!!!! Tell me you saw that...

    I am, though, a complete fan of Alnwick Castle.  That what a proper castle should look like and the library is the room I would stay in for the rest of my days until I was found, quiet and starting to fester a little, some years later!  



    Thanks for this lovely reminder of a glorious place, discovered on a really nice holiday a few years ago.


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