A to Z of Destinations
Australia, NZ and South Pacific
A to Z of Experiences
Walking and trekking
Diving and snorkelling
Wildlife and safaris
Meet the locals
Frontier and expedition
Cycling and Mountain Biking
Visiting the Poles
Career breaks and BIG trips
Body and soul
Volunteer and conservation
Everest Base Camp
Trans-Siberian and Trans-Mongolian railway
Machu Picchu and the Inca Trail
Aurora Borealis/Northern Lights
Climb Mount Kilimanjaro
12th March 2012
Twelve months after a tsunami devastated Japan, associate web editor Peter Moore celebrates the country's enduring ability to rebound and renew
There is a cherry blossom tree that stands alone on a tiny patch of dirt near a gaijin house in Kiba.
I didn’t notice it for the first three months I lived in Tokyo. I‘d arrived in the depths of winter and scurried to work with my head down against the inclement weather. Even if I had lifted my eyes I doubt I would have seen it. It was spindly and bare and camouflaged against the dark worn slats of the wooden houses.
As spring approached my students chattered excitedly of the sakura zensen, the cherry blossom front, sweeping up from the southern islands of Japan. They watched its progress on the evening news, speculating when it would reach Tokyo and the hanami, picnicking, would begin. The tree near my home began to bud but I was too distracted by the neon and noise of the Pachinko parlour across the way to pay particular mind.
Then, one warm evening in April, I finally noticed it. Or to be more precise, I noticed a man sitting under the cherry tree waving a bottle of sake at me. He introduced himself as Hiro, a salaryman with a small electronics manufacturer nearby. He couldn’t speak much English. I couldn’t speak much Japanese. But with sake at least we thought we could.
The tree was heavy with sakura blossoms and covered with festive lanterns. I sat with Hiro and his family – a wife and small son – eating rice snacks, drinking sake and gazing up at the kaleidoscope of pink above me. We sang songs and played games and drank far too much rice wine, but for an hour or so at least, the world seemed exquisitely perfect.
The tree was small so families from the neighbourhood took turns to picnic under it. Each evening a different man waving a different bottle of sake would call me over to join him. Kotaro, the bank manager, with a daughter dressed like a doll. Takashi, the mechanic, and his two unruly sons. Yoshi, the retired factory worker, and his yappy terrier that chased the blossoms as they fell. Each knew that this moment of fragile beauty was transient and were determined that I should make the most of it.
Just when I didn‘t think I could drink another shot of sake or eat another agemochi, the blossoms scattered and the parties stopped. The tree stood abandoned and I returned to the room I shared with nine other foreigners, sober and sad, humming ‘I was a Kamikaze Pilot’ by the Hoodoo Gurus, the only song I knew that mentioned cherry blossoms.
Over summer the tree’s canopy cast a handkerchief of shade, enough for Yoshi’s panting terrier to escape the searing heat. But soon those leaves fell too. The tree faded into the background again, invisible to all except the odd sparrow looking for a perch.
As autumn closed and winter approached, I ran into Kotaro on his way home from the bank. We spoke of the hanami and I reminisced about the cherry blossoms, perhaps a little too wistfully.
‘They will come again,’ he assured me. ‘The sakura always do.‘
View all posts from
You must be logged in to leave a comment. Login or get more from Wanderlust - register today!
A poignant piece of writing, beautifully written. I have a glorious cherry tree in my back garden and when it's at its full glory its magnificant. The problem is the blossom doesn't last long.
But as you say, Spring always returns - even to Japan!
Japan travel guide, including map of Japan, key facts, travel tips for Japan, culture, things to do in Japan, accommodation, transport and weather in Japan
This is the most classic adventure you can have in Japan. Here's how best to climb this elusive peak and snaffle the most precious views
Nowhere mixes the old and new quite like Japan – use modern trains to discover pilgrim paths, timeless peaks and glimpses into the past...
No other country crams so much into a small package. Here's your guide to the destination you chose as the best in the world – New Zealand!
It's Australia Day on 26 Jan: our resident Aussie tells you how to celebrate it properly, just like they do Down Under
It’s the travel icon on every traveller’s bucket list. Here’s your guide to making the most of your visit to the Incan world's greatest treasure
Simply select the destination you’re interested in or the activities you’re looking
for and we’ll send your request to a select panel of tour operators.
Each operator will respond to your request individually. Your details remain private
and are not disclosed to any partners unless you decide to proceed with a booking.
SAVE 10% online with Rohan
10% OFF at Powertraveller
SAVE 50% on ‘A Taste of Spitsbergen’ Arctic voyages, various departures in June 2016.
Wanderlust sends out regular email newsletters – be the first to know about web
exclusives, competitions, hot offers and travel jobs. Register today!
I have read and agree to the Terms &
Where in the world are you? Add
#wanderlustmag to your tweets and share your latest travel adventures with
fellow Wanderlusters on wanderlust.co.uk
Get to know Wanderlust on facebook and bring all your travel-minded friends, too