A to Z of Destinations
Australia, NZ and South Pacific
A to Z of Experiences
Walking and trekking
Diving and snorkelling
Wildlife and safaris
Meet the locals
Frontier and expedition
Cycling and Mountain Biking
Visiting the Poles
Career breaks and BIG trips
Body and soul
Volunteer and conservation
Australia, East Coast
Australia, West Coast
Everest Base Camp
Trans-Siberian and Trans-Mongolian railway
Aurora Borealis/Northern Lights
Machu Picchu and the Inca Trail
Climb Mount Kilimanjaro
Cruising the Nile, Egypt
One of the few non-retreating glaciers in the Patagonia region, this is a true geographical highlight of the Argentinian Andes
Chris Moss | Issue 94 | March 2008
You can snap photo after photo, but you can never quite capture the character of a glacier. It looks absolutely static, but it is moving. It is mostly silent, but it growls. It is white, but it looks impossibly, electrically blue. It is impenetrable and cold, but – from a distance – has the texture and inviting tangibility of cake icing.
On my first trip to the Perito Moreno, it was the glacier’s surreal aspect that beguiled me. I sat on the terminal moraine in shorts, sunbathing in front of the towering, 80m-high ice wall.
On a second visit to a nearby estancia I took a cruise across Lago Argentino, the biggest lake in Patagonia, and visited Perito Moreno’s neighbours – the Onelli, Spegazzini and Upsala glaciers. The boat sailed through a bright green lake littered with bergs of every shape and size, before drawing up before the alien sight of a lonely, ominous slab of ice. Far from any town, I had the thrilling, if unnerving, sense of being in the midst of something utterly geological, outside human history.
The Upsala is actually bigger than Moreno, but the latter remains the most impressive for most. To see the Upsala properly, you’d have to fly over it in a helicopter or microlight, as it is tucked away (if you can tuck away 870 sq km of ice) in a long valley that is tricky to access.
But the Moreno, which is in any case as big as the city of Buenos Aires, stuns you even if you see it only as the coach tourists do – from a bend in the road in front of the Los Notros hotel. From this humble tarmac, it’s a dazzling spectacle: framed by mountains and beech forests, tiny boats simper beneath the looming ice-cliff and, way beyond, the Southern Ice Field is encircled by mist.
You must be logged in to leave a comment. Login or get more from Wanderlust - register today!
Hiking, kayaking, surfing, rafting, scuba diving horse-riding, dog-sledding, horse-riding... add an outdoor activity to your travels and holidays
Walking and trekking holiday travel guide, including walking, hiking and trekking travel advice, where to walk, trek, hike and walk in the world
On the 30th anniversary of Bruce Chatwin’s inspiring travelogue, Songlines, we delve into Australia’s Aboriginal heartlands to explore its ancient trails
Incredible birdlife. Ancient rock art. Wild rapids. We head north from Cape Town to discover there’s more to South Africa’s buzziest area than the eastern Winelands…
The urban rhythms of Argentina’s capital enthral many – but scratch beneath its concrete façade to discover wild reserves, untamed delta and a magical taste of pampas life
Acclaimed Danish author Dorthe Nors is an expert guide to her country, from enigmatic oceans and epic coastal walks to a very ‘hygge’ capital city. These are her 5 top things to do in Denmark…
Our readers voted them their favourite emerging destinations. From Rwanda to Bolivia, here's how you can explore these rising stars of adventure travel...
Berlin is one of the world’s hippest, most vibrant cities. Adelina Storkaas asks 3 of the German capital’s top tour guides - Markus Müller-Tenckhoff, Sascha Möllering and Henrik Tidefjärd - to reveal it's hidden gems, from the best bars and clubs to active ways to explore
Author Leila Segal knows Cuba like the back of her hand. Here she shares the hidden highlights you should seek out on your trip...
Simply select the destination you’re interested in or the activities you’re looking
for and we’ll send your request to a select panel of tour operators.
Each operator will respond to your request individually. Your details remain private
and are not disclosed to any partners unless you decide to proceed with a booking.
20% off Norway Arctic Expedition Cruise - Save up to £1,100!
The Ultimate Whale Watching Holiday!
Up to £300 discount to travel Bangladesh
Wanderlust sends out regular email newsletters – be the first to know about web
exclusives, competitions, hot offers and travel jobs. Register today!
I have read and agree to the Terms &
Where in the world are you? Add
#wanderlustmag to your tweets and share your latest travel adventures with
fellow Wanderlusters on wanderlust.co.uk
Get to know Wanderlust on facebook and bring all your travel-minded friends, too