A to Z of Destinations
Australia, NZ and South Pacific
A to Z of Experiences
Walking and trekking
Diving and snorkelling
Wildlife and safaris
Meet the locals
Frontier and expedition
Cycling and Mountain Biking
Visiting the Poles
Career breaks and BIG trips
Body and soul
Volunteer and conservation
Australia, East Coast
Everest Base Camp
Machu Picchu and the Inca Trail
Trans-Siberian and Trans-Mongolian railway
Great Wall of China
The Galápagos Islands
One of the few non-retreating glaciers in the Patagonia region, this is a true geographical highlight of the Argentinian Andes
Chris Moss | Issue 94 | March 2008
You can snap photo after photo, but you can never quite capture the character of a glacier. It looks absolutely static, but it is moving. It is mostly silent, but it growls. It is white, but it looks impossibly, electrically blue. It is impenetrable and cold, but – from a distance – has the texture and inviting tangibility of cake icing.
On my first trip to the Perito Moreno, it was the glacier’s surreal aspect that beguiled me. I sat on the terminal moraine in shorts, sunbathing in front of the towering, 80m-high ice wall.
On a second visit to a nearby estancia I took a cruise across Lago Argentino, the biggest lake in Patagonia, and visited Perito Moreno’s neighbours – the Onelli, Spegazzini and Upsala glaciers. The boat sailed through a bright green lake littered with bergs of every shape and size, before drawing up before the alien sight of a lonely, ominous slab of ice. Far from any town, I had the thrilling, if unnerving, sense of being in the midst of something utterly geological, outside human history.
The Upsala is actually bigger than Moreno, but the latter remains the most impressive for most. To see the Upsala properly, you’d have to fly over it in a helicopter or microlight, as it is tucked away (if you can tuck away 870 sq km of ice) in a long valley that is tricky to access.
But the Moreno, which is in any case as big as the city of Buenos Aires, stuns you even if you see it only as the coach tourists do – from a bend in the road in front of the Los Notros hotel. From this humble tarmac, it’s a dazzling spectacle: framed by mountains and beech forests, tiny boats simper beneath the looming ice-cliff and, way beyond, the Southern Ice Field is encircled by mist.
You must be logged in to leave a comment. Login or get more from Wanderlust - register today!
Hiking, kayaking, surfing, rafting, scuba diving horse-riding, dog-sledding, horse-riding... add an outdoor activity to your travels and holidays
Walking and trekking holiday travel guide, including walking, hiking and trekking travel advice, where to walk, trek, hike and walk in the world
The epic new Jordan Trail opens up the country’s desert wonders, including Petra, Wadi Rum and the Dead Sea canyons, to explore on foot. Amjad Shahrour has all you need to plan a trip...
If you want to tackle Camino de Santiago but only have a week to spare, try hiking the last 100km, skipping the albergues. This will ensure eternal forgiveness in unsaintly luxury...
Canada’s set to unveil the world’s largest ever network of trails for hiking, biking and more. Jérémie Gabourg has everything you need to know, from key sections to practical tips
South-East Asia packs in fuming mountains, iconic temples, electric cities and beautiful beaches. From Bali to Bangkok, here's how to get the most out of this diverse and wonderful region
Endurance athlete Nick Butter reveals the marathons that will challenge you as a runner and thrill you as a traveller, from Morocco to the Great Wall of China
Berlin is one of the world’s hippest, most vibrant cities. Adelina Storkaas asks 3 of the German capital’s top tour guides - Markus Müller-Tenckhoff, Sascha Möllering and Henrik Tidefjärd - to reveal it's hidden gems, from the best bars and clubs to active ways to explore
Author Leila Segal knows Cuba like the back of her hand. Here she shares the hidden highlights you should seek out on your trip...
Simply select the destination you’re interested in or the activities you’re looking
for and we’ll send your request to a select panel of tour operators.
Each operator will respond to your request individually. Your details remain private
and are not disclosed to any partners unless you decide to proceed with a booking.
10% (over £300) OFF the EARLY BIRD Rates for the Philippines Sailing Challenge
23 Days in Bangladesh from £2,000 per person or less
SAVE 10% online with Rohan
Wanderlust sends out regular email newsletters – be the first to know about web
exclusives, competitions, hot offers and travel jobs. Register today!
I have read and agree to the Terms &
Where in the world are you? Add
#wanderlustmag to your tweets and share your latest travel adventures with
fellow Wanderlusters on wanderlust.co.uk
Get to know Wanderlust on facebook and bring all your travel-minded friends, too