








The alternative Orient Express – by Paul Bloomfield
All aboard… The Orient Express used to leave from Paris’s Gare de Lyon; now your recreation of the journey will start from the Gare de L’est
Paris-Strasbourg… Today’s curtailed version of the Orient Express runs from this crossroads of Europe – the perfect excuse to nose round its pretty ’n pink cathedral
Strasbourg-Vienna… Get off the Orient Express and head for Café Sperl (www.cafesperl.at), a 19th century cocoon of big cakes and tinkling pianists
Vienna… Do wander around grand Vienna’s cathedral. Don’t let the ‘Mozarts’ mobbing the square (the best-dressed hawkers around) sell you over-priced concert tickets
Vienna-Budapest… Art Nouveau even invades the markets in handsome Budapest. The Nagycsarnok is the place to pick up pastries and paprika
Budapest… The interior of St Stephen’s Basilica is a touch OTT, but look out for free and spine-tingling concerts that sometimes echo around its gilted grandeur
Budapest-Belgrade… One of central Belgrade’s oldest buildings, ‘?’ Café serves super-strong coffee (though you may be offered schnapps instead – even at 9am)
Belgrade… Another boozer – the fantastic World Travellers’ Club. A bugger to find – look for the Optimist pub, cross the road, push on a featureless door, walk down a corridor, through another door on the right, walk down some stairs and, bingo!
Belgrade-Istanbul… Welcome to almost-Asia. The 1,500-year-old Haghia Sophia is worth the train trip alone, even with the scaffolding
Istanbul… Take all the money you’ve saved by NOT travelling on the posh Orient Express and spend it on the lanterns, rugs, bling and tat of the Grand Bazaar